The Food Culture of the Kyrgyz
The formation of the traditional food culture of the Kyrgyz went through several stages, determined by the peculiarities of ethnic history, economic structure, and ethnocultural contacts with neighboring peoples. The first fragmentary information about the peculiarities of Kyrgyz food from the second half of the 19th century is found in reports, accounts, and works of travelers and scholars who visited Kyrgyz lands before and after its annexation to the Russian Empire. Among them, it is first necessary to mention V. V. Radlov, Ch. Ch. Valikhanov, G. S. Zagryazhsky, N. I. Ilminsky, N. Zelanda, Yu. D. Golovin, G. Bonvalo, Kapyus, and others. In the historical and ethnographic study of various aspects of food, a significant contribution was made by E. I. Makhoeva, S. M. Abramzon, M. A. Aitbaev, Yu. A. Shibaev, F. A. Fielstrup, L. A. Firstein, Ch. K. Omurbekov, A. S. Kochkunov, S. T. Kayipov, and others. Their works revealed the ethnic characteristics of the food system, described individual types of products and dishes, established the ritual-ceremonial, calendar, and prestige nature of dishes, as well as issues of the transformation of the traditional food system in the Soviet and post-Soviet periods.
Traditional Kyrgyz nutrition from ancient times to the mid-19th century developed in the general context of the culture of nomadic peoples of Central Asia, characterized by the predominance of products of animal husbandry. At the same time, the diet of nomads included a certain proportion of food based on cereal crops.
In the second half of the 19th century, a number of important changes occurred in the economic development of the Kyrgyz, which, in turn, had a direct impact on many aspects of folk life, including food characteristics.
These changes were due to the more or less stable development of agriculture, the strengthening of trade relations with neighboring peoples, primarily with the peoples of the settled agricultural centers of Central Asia and Eastern Turkestan. The changes in the ethnic composition of the population in the territory of modern Kyrgyzstan, associated with the resettlement of Russians, Ukrainians from the Central and Southern provinces of Russia, as well as Dungan and Uighur peoples from Eastern Turkestan, had a significant impact on the economic development of the region. These peoples, except for the Uighurs, whose culture was generally based on common Central Asian traditions, brought with them a new culture based on a high level of agriculture and agronomy, which differed significantly from the agricultural traditions of Central Asian peoples, including the Kyrgyz. New cultural crops such as vegetables, potatoes, and others developed in the region.
All these factors had a certain influence on the food system of the Kyrgyz as a whole. However, as literary sources and materials from field ethnographic studies indicate, the food of the Kyrgyz in the second half of the 19th century did not undergo radical changes. The traditional food of the Kyrgyz during this period, its composition, the range of dishes, etc., was based on products of animal husbandry and agriculture. However, products of animal husbandry played a dominant role. Only at the end of the 19th century and especially in the first quarter of the 20th century did some innovations appear in the structure of dishes, in baking, etc., which later received significant development. These innovations arose in two ways: spontaneously, based on appropriation and processing in accordance with the food culture of the Kyrgyz, and through the complete borrowing of foreign ethnic elements in the food system.
In the second half of the 19th century, food among the Kyrgyz continued to be seasonal. The main food products were primarily obtained from animal husbandry. The diet included meat from camels, horses, sheep, goats, and cattle, including yaks. Hunting also played an important auxiliary role, especially during the mass die-off of livestock - jute. Wild edible plants, the names of which exceed three dozen, were also used in food.
However, in the food ration, agricultural products such as wheat, millet, and barley formed the basis of an independent line of nutrition.
The most common type of food among all groups of Kyrgyz in the second half of the 19th century was dairy products and meat. They were characteristic of all nomadic peoples of the Eurasian steppe. Dairy and meat products from animal husbandry were consumed unevenly throughout the calendar year. From mid-spring to mid-autumn, dairy dishes were predominantly consumed, and in more affluent households, meat dishes as well. However, the majority of herders consumed meat products irregularly during the spring-autumn period.
Winter food was mainly meat-based, and dairy snacks were also used, which were prepared in advance during the summer. Such a traditional seasonal food regime is noted by researchers among many nomadic peoples of Central and Middle Asia (Ethnography of Food... 1979. P. 65; Zhukovskaya, 1981. P. 121).
Food - tamaks, tamak ash, okat - the Kyrgyz classified into the following types: by the main composition of products - dairy - süt tamak, meat - etten jasalgan tamak, porridge and porridge-like - atala, botko, ash (paloo); drinks - suusunduk; by the method of preparation: liquid dishes - suyuk tamak; by temperature regime: hot dishes - yzyk tamak, cold dishes - muzdak tamak, warm dishes (reheated) - zhylymyk, zhylytma (dishes subjected to secondary consumption); by diet: light food - zhenil tamak, neutral food - munyöz tamak, by meal schedule: breakfast - ozyk zhalgoo, lunch - tushku tamak or tushtuk, dinner - kechki tamak or tunuk (differed in caloric content); travel food - zhol azyk and its varieties (provisions) - gulazyk. With regular abundant consumption of nutritious (high-calorie) dishes, usually meat - chuygun tamak, indigestion occurred - kuptuu, and they switched to light liquid dishes. And with prolonged abstinence from meat dishes, the body became significantly weakened - suuqtayt.
Then, to maintain the body with calorie-rich meat dishes, it was necessary to slaughter livestock or increase the share of hot dishes made from agricultural products in the overall diet. In summer, with frequent consumption of hot dishes, overheating - ysylyk occurred, and then they switched to cooling dishes.
Kyrgyz Cuisine