The first time I visited Istanbul was about fifteen years ago. I was flying to Cairo. The "layover" was such that we spent a whole day in Istanbul. The Georgian airline, which values its image, provided us with a hotel and a city tour. That was when I first saw Istanbul.
A huge city: bazaars, mosques, ruins of ancient fortresses and castles... The guide told stories about the sultans, their feats, harems, and the riches of Turkish lands. We also went to the Bosphorus, crossing to the Asian shore on sightseeing boats, admiring the bridges and the views of the city from the sea. Istanbul left an impression as a beautiful and large Eastern city.
And now, a few years later, we are again in Istanbul, passing through on our way to the Middle East. Viktor Kadyrov, a well-known publisher in Bishkek and a regular participant in our travels, has a partner and good friend here, Ilyaz-bey, the owner of a large publishing house. To avoid wasting time, Viktor asked Ilyaz-bey to organize a tour and be our guide in Istanbul. Ilyaz-bey was happy to show his beloved city.
At nine in the morning, his car was already waiting at our hotel.
- Let's start with the fact that in 1453, a 250,000-strong army of Sultan Mehmed II besieged Constantinople. Emperor Constantine XII had only 7,000 warriors, but despite the overwhelming superiority of the Turks, the Byzantines held off the attacks for 53 days. However, on May 9, 1453, Constantinople fell.
From this time begins the history of Istanbul. Sultan Mehmed II moved the center of his empire to Constantinople. The city acquired a new face and a new name - Istanbul. Builders were invited here, who greatly changed the appearance of the city, giving it an Eastern flavor. Mosques, madrasas, Turkish baths, barracks for janissaries, fountains, gardens, and bustling caravanserais appeared here - in a word, everything that is hard to imagine a Muslim city without.
The new capital had nothing to fear; it became the center of a powerful military empire, where the sultan himself set an example of courage and led his army into battle.
Istanbul Renaissance
To see the main attractions of Istanbul from the Ottoman period, we head to its main square. Around it are many well-known and visited historical and cultural monuments. The modern appearance of the square was formed during the reign of Sultan Ahmed I. In the Byzantine period, there was a hippodrome on this site. Now the square bears the name of Sultan Mehmed.
Ilyaz-bey does not tire of feeding us historical information. There is indeed a lot of interesting things.
The grand Ahmed Mosque was built in 1616. The site was personally chosen by Sultan Ahmed. Construction began in 1609. During the preparatory work, many buildings from the Byzantine period were destroyed, including the royal palace, the stands of the hippodrome, and several other palace buildings. Thus, the architectural wonder - the Ahmed Mosque - was born. It took seven years to construct.
The architect of the mosque, Mehmet-aga, nicknamed the Jeweler, served in the janissary corps before revealing his architectural talents, where he oversaw the construction of water supply structures and canals. The uniqueness of the Ahmed Mosque is that, unlike traditional religious buildings in Istanbul, it was built with six minarets. Four minarets have three balconies each, while two have two balconies from which the muezzins call to prayer.
Another common name for the Ahmed Mosque - the Blue Mosque - comes from the blue and green colors of the Turkish tiles used in decorating the walls and domes. The light pouring in from 260 windows mysteriously highlights the beauty and elegance of the decor, bringing it to the forefront.
Behind the Ahmed Mosque is a museum of Byzantine mosaics, which features a rich collection of tiles and mosaic panels depicting scenes of hunting mythological heroes, dating back to the 4th and 6th centuries. All this mosaic was discovered during archaeological excavations in 1935-1938.
Another, perhaps the most important monument of Istanbul, Hagia Sophia, is located on the western side of the square. On June 3, 1453, Sultan Fatih Mehmed, who performed the first major Friday prayer in Hagia Sophia after capturing the city, ordered its reconstruction into a mosque and created a special fund for this purpose.
The city reached its peak during the reign of Suleiman I, known as the Magnificent. He was not only a brilliant military commander but also a well-educated man who valued the intellect and talents of his courtiers. He entered history with his unusual romantic relationship with his wife - the Slavic Anastasia Lisovskaya, the legendary Roxelana. For her sake, he not only renounced a harem of several hundred concubines but also ruthlessly dealt with his eldest son and heir Mustafa. Skillfully managing the will of the powerful ruler, Roxelana, who moved into Suleiman's private chambers, remained for him the most beautiful and desired woman until her death. Losing her, the sultan ordered the construction of a tomb for his beloved wife in the same place where he himself was to rest - in the garden of the Suleymaniye Mosque.
The construction of the Suleymaniye Mosque, which began in 1550, was entrusted to the architect Sinan and completed in 1557. In layout, the mosque resembles Hagia Sophia to a significant extent, which served as an architectural model for other mosques built at different times in Istanbul and Ankara.
The mosque is located in the center of the garden. We entered the courtyard to see the tombs of Suleiman I and his wife Roxelana. There is a whole cemetery here, which today has been turned into a museum of gravestones, each of which is unique in its artistic style. Influential figures and palace nobility are buried here. The tomb of Suleiman I's daughter Mihrimah is also located here. And here is the sweet couple - Sultan Suleiman I himself and his wife Hurrem (Roxelana).
There are several hundred mosques in Istanbul - large and small, with four, two, and even one minaret. Large mosques with more than one minaret were called sultanic. Some of them are true pearls of Muslim architecture, masterpieces of scale and color, testifying to the lyricism of Islam. The mosques of Istanbul represent Islam triumphant, reaching upwards with the elegant spears of minarets. There is something magical, otherworldly about it.
Another must-see object on tourist excursions in Istanbul is the Topkapi Palace. For 400 years, it was the center of the administration of the Ottoman state. After the Turks conquered Constantinople, Sultan Mehmed ordered the construction of the Topkapi Palace on its foundations in 1475. The construction was completed in 1478. However, the palace continued to be built and furnished until the end of the 19th century, until it was abandoned by the last Ottoman sultan. It occupies an area of more than 700,000 square meters. Its territory stretches for five kilometers along the Bosphorus shore.
The palace grounds include numerous buildings. It is a whole city that requires at least one day to explore. Unfortunately, we do not have that day, so we limit ourselves to viewing only part of its attractions. We look at sections of Chinese, European, and Turkish porcelain, weapons, and the harem - which Ilyaz-bey considers an interesting corner of the palace complex.
The harem was a forbidden world for outsiders. The only exceptions were the sultan and his closest relatives. Access was only granted to representatives of three professions: doctors, teachers, and musicians.
In the harem, besides the wives and the mother sultana, young princes - future heirs to the throne, their sisters, and servants lived. In the palace harem, the sultan's concubines were his servants. They were usually local beauties and girls captured in campaigns. The faith and names of the concubines were changed as a matter of course. Women who became wives of the sultan and bore children gained the right to have separate quarters in the harem or marry wealthy high-ranking officials, after which they acquired a free life. The palace harem occupied an area of 6,700 square meters and had about 3,000 rooms. The head of the black eunuchs - the "master of the girls" was a person close to the sultan. The quarters of the black eunuchs, who were responsible for raising and educating the princes, were distinguished by their decor and luxury. Interestingly, only black men, who underwent forced castration, were appointed to this position.
Enthralled by his story about the palace harem, the museum guide led us through rooms and courtyards covered with glazed tiles, showing us the school where the princes were educated, the quarters of the sultan's wives, the luxurious bed of the sultana, and much more. As a result, I became completely confused about where the harem was and where it wasn't. Thank God time was pressing us, and we moved on to the next site, located just across the street.
The Yerebatan cistern is the largest structure built during the Byzantine period. To ensure the city had enough water, an underground reservoir was built in 532, which was filled with water from the Valens Aqueduct. The aqueduct itself, by the way, built in 375 by Emperor Valens, has been well preserved, with its 200-meter section hanging over Beyazıt Square.
The underground reservoir is decorated with Roman columns. In total, there are 336 of them - a whole forest of columns. One of them is special - it rests on a sculptural base depicting the head of a Gorgon.
A change of guard occurred in the restaurant. Ilyaz-bey is a busy man, and so our further journey was entrusted to a young guy named Kenesh. Kenesh is from Kyrgyzstan, specifically from the Kara-Kulja district of the Osh region. He graduated from university in Istanbul with a degree in publishing and now works for Ilyaz-bey's company.
We needed to hurry: our boat was leaving in fifteen minutes. Fearing to be late, we rushed to the port by taxi. An elderly Turk, understanding the task, showed remarkable driving skills navigating the winding streets of Istanbul.
And here it is, the Bosphorus. The heart of Istanbul. Witness and cause of its birth, falls and rises, joys and sorrows...
Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus, are destined for eternal contemplation of each other. Istanbul stretches along both shores of the strait - one of the largest megacities in the world. Most of the city is in Europe, while the Asian part is smaller and more modern.
In turn, the European part of the city is divided by the Golden Horn bay. About seven thousand years ago, the waters of the Alibey and Kağıthane rivers, which still flow into the northern part of the Golden Horn, merged with the waters of the Bosphorus and formed a natural harbor. For centuries, the Golden Horn was known as one of the best natural harbors in the world. For a long time, it remained the center for the military and trade fleets of both the Byzantine and later the Ottoman Empire. The waters of this bay indeed resemble a horn in shape, and it is believed that the bay was named by Byzantium in honor of its mother - Keroessa, as the Golden Horn is called Chrysokeras in Greek.
But there is also another beautiful legend that the waters of the bay sparkle with real gold under the rays of the sun. The modern Turkish name for the Golden Horn is Haliç.
The Bosphorus is the strait between Europe and Asia Minor, connecting the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara, and together with the Dardanelles, the Mediterranean Sea. The widest point of the Bosphorus is 3,700 meters. The narrowest is 750. By the way, the first bridge over the Bosphorus was once built at this narrowest point. It was a floating bridge built by the Persian king Darius during his campaign against the Scythians. This was 2,500 years ago. Darius's troops (700,000 men) constructed the bridge in a very short time.
The word "Bosphorus" means "cow crossing" in ancient Greek. The Bosphorus owes its name to the Greek myth of Io - the daughter of the Argive king Inachus, whom Zeus fell in love with. In an attempt to hide his lover from his jealous wife Hera, Zeus transformed Io into a white cow. But Hera figured it out and demanded that the cow be brought to her as a sacrifice. Zeus managed to prevent Io's death and arranged for her escape. In pursuit of the runaway, Hera sent a hornet. Io wandered through various parts of the ancient world, escaping the stings of the pursuing hornet. While in the territory of present-day Istanbul, she chose the water route to safety, diving into the waters of the strait, which have since been called the Cow Crossing or Bosphorus.
In conclusion to this story, Io reached Egypt, where she managed to regain her former form and bear a son by Zeus named Epaphus - the ancestor of various Greek heroes, the most famous of whom are Perseus and Heracles. Io is also known as the Egyptian goddess Isis.
The three-decked ship, filled with tourists and residents of Istanbul, departed from the shore and, slowing down, smoothly headed toward the Sea of Marmara. It seemed as if it was standing still while the shores slowly moved towards us. On both sides, an endless city unfolded: beautiful palaces and mosques, buildings with red roofs, modern skyscrapers of banks and business centers. The Galata Tower stood out among the mosques.
On the upper deck, it was cool. The bar owner served coffee, tea, and other drinks. He skillfully juggled trays while simultaneously performing several tasks: advertising his tiara, serving customers, collecting payments, and giving change. It was very interesting to watch. But even more interesting was the surroundings. We were accompanied by flocks of seagulls, and I thought these birds were the soul of the Bosphorus as I stood on the open deck. Large, beautiful, and very intelligent birds. They swoop down to grab food, screech, and play, always getting into the frame. I have never seen so many seagulls anywhere as here on the Bosphorus.
The Bosphorus is impressive. Its mysterious and alluring blue-green surface, crashing into waves, breaks into a watery mist. The distant shores create beautiful tonal perspectives, highlighting contrasts, making the panoramas soft and light. Everyone on the open decks is taking pictures.
Our boat passes by the beautiful Maiden's Tower (Kız Kulesi). And here comes a monstrous ocean ship approaching. It goes under the bridge and seems like it will surely hit. But this is an illusion; it passes with a huge margin, all because the Bosphorus Bridge, or Atatürk Bridge, is one of the longest and most beautiful in the world, a unique engineering structure. Its length is 1,560 meters, width is 33 meters, height above the water is 64 meters, and the distance between the supports is 1,074 meters. The bridge was opened on October 29, 1973, to commemorate the establishment of the Turkish Republic and cost the treasury 130 million dollars.
Soon our boat emerged into open waters. The shores receded, and whimsical, forested islands emerged from the water, densely built with houses and villas. These are the Princes' Islands of the Sea of Marmara. In the past, the archipelago of nine islands was a retreat for Byzantine princes.
For our excursion, Kenesh chose Büyükada - the largest (5.5 sq. km) and most visited island. It is conditionally divided into two halves - inhabited and uninhabited. The first part is built up with sizable and apparently not very cheap villas, where modern Turkish princes reside. The second, farther from the pier, is a kind of natural zone. To get there, we decided to use a horse-drawn carriage.
Swaying leisurely, we moved along the island. The road climbed higher and higher. Soon we regretted giving in to the exotic offer. The transport of princes turned out to be romantic only in appearance. The horses continuously released air right on us. And it was unbearable. "Now we really feel like princes," I thought and suggested we walk back. The path went through a beautiful pine forest, through which views of the coves and the sea opened up.
The day was coming to an end. The sun, hanging over the European shore of the Bosphorus, boiled, spilling golden arrows. There were still a few minutes until sunset. People poured onto the deck, looking for a comfortable spot for contemplation. Settling on the middle deck, I found what seemed to be a convenient angle. The sun was supposed to set right behind the minarets of the Ahmed Mosque.
The moment of truth was approaching... Right before our eyes, the sun transformed from gold into a boiling ruby. The rays, reaching for the sky, unfolded along the entire horizon a light, net-like, reddish-yellow cloak. One more moment, and the sun, casting a last glance at the Bosphorus, hung over the upper edge of the Istanbul hills. Under the magical light of the sunset rays - countless minarets of the city, like alien elegant ships.
...Seconds played with the fate of day and night. One more moment, and the sun fell through the boundary of shadows. And then, as if cut by a Turkish yatagan, the ruby curtain collapsed into the waters of the Bosphorus. It was all over. The shadow of night fell on Istanbul, and only there, where the curtain of sunset fell, for a few more moments did the cold waters sparkle with ruby glimmers.