Информационно-туристический интернет-портал «OPEN.KG» / "Dear Volcanoes"

"Dear Volcanoes"

Road of Volcanoes

It was winter. February was unusually warm, with rain falling so lightly that it was hardly felt. Almost at midnight, we left Bishkek. The night fog, settled in the lowlands, was hiding from the morning frost.
“Is winter really over?” I wondered, looking out the night window. Surely, gathering its strength, it will return. But it will be without us. Our winter will remain here, as we are flying to South America and will return only in a month, when the slopes of the Baytik hills will be adorned with white-pink snowdrops. But that will be a while, and for now, we were surrounded by night, with rain turning into snow.
Everything went according to schedule in Almaty, except for the fact that we got lost in the city, missing the necessary turn in the fog.
The flight to Amsterdam took seven hours. Then a “layover” of 13 hours at the international airport. Unfortunately, this was the connection time for our flight to Quito, the capital of Ecuador.
The Amsterdam airport seemed to me like a huge closed city, operating under the control of computers and precisely calibrated programs located somewhere. Yes, it is the largest air harbor, where planes take off and land every 25-30 seconds. The geography of their flights encompasses the whole world. Hundreds of aircraft dock at its docks.
Out of boredom, I calculated that around 30,000 passengers are constantly at the port - by our standards, the population of an average city. There is everything here - shops, restaurants, cafes, bars, cinemas, hotels, clinics, salons, museums, galleries, playgrounds, a central square, streets, and alleys... It seemed to me that it was simply impossible to comprehend this entire metropolis at once. However, the 13 hours that fate had allotted us changed the first impression. Within a few hours, I knew every corner of this bustling air city. Now I confidently say that I know Amsterdam Airport better than any other in the world and could easily work here as a guide.
The flight to Quito is one of the last in the schedule for that day. We happily walked to the dock via familiar passages, taking the shortest route. People were gathering from all directions at our dock. About five hundred people had gathered, filling the huge airplane. The spacious cabin was filled with soft, calming music and warmth. Without hesitation, the liner soared into the night sky and set course for the west.
By this time, I had completely lost track of time. Everything had mixed together - dates, distances, geography. Deadly fatigue muddled my consciousness. It seemed that as soon as I reached my seat, I would immediately fall asleep. But no, God did not grant me the ability to switch off and switch gears so quickly depending on circumstances. Therefore, I could not sleep.
We are flying west. The flight to Quito takes 15 hours. There are two stops along the way: on the island of Bonaire, located off the northeastern coast of Venezuela, and in the city of Guayaquil in Ecuador. In short, I no longer oriented myself in numbers, I only knew one thing: that since the time we left Bishkek, the clock had counted 40 hours.
When we landed in Quito, the local time was around nine in the morning on February 12. The sun was shining outside, and bright flowers were blooming. One of the first pleasant features of Ecuador is its hospitality, expressed in the fact that no visa is required to visit this country. As a tourism specialist, this caused me absolute delight. Here is a worthy example to follow! Ecuador is open to all. It does not divide people into rich and poor, black and white, Christians, Muslims, and Buddhists, friends and enemies...

Road of Volcanoes

I met Patricio - our guide in Ecuador. A young, slender guy, he inherited the features of his indigenous ancestors. By the way, in the modern ethnic composition of Ecuador, indigenous people make up only 25% of the population, the rest are mestizos (a mix of various indigenous tribes with Spaniards and other European peoples).
Before heading to the hotel, Patricio informed us that we must visit the clinic, of course, not as a sightseeing object, but to get vaccinated against yellow fever. Part of our program will take place in the jungles and rainforests, and this is a necessary requirement. Health comes first, so there are no objections. This pleasure cost $10. Having obtained a special certificate, which, by the way, is valid for 10 years, one can safely venture into the jungles not only of South America but also of other parts of the world.
There was no program today. After settling us in the hotel, Patricio said goodbye until tomorrow.
I didn’t feel like sleeping. A new, unknown city unfolded outside the window. After getting myself ready, we went outside.
To start, we explored all the areas adjacent to the hotel, shops, markets, and stalls. We got a first and very good impression. After wandering around, we returned to the hotel, and upon reaching the bed, I finally fell into the long-awaited sleep.
...I woke up early, around four in the morning. But I felt rested. Outside, it was still night. What to do? There was still a lot of time until dawn. Taking out my travel diary, I decided to restore and build a rapid chronology of the past days on paper.
Before we embark on an exciting journey through Ecuador, allow me to draw the readers' attention to a certain geographical aspect.
In terms of nature, the territory of the country is divided into three meridional zones. In the center is the high volcanic plateau of the Sierra. To the west is the Pacific coastal plain of Costa and the eastern foothill plain with pristine wet forests of Oriente.
The Sierra is an elongated high-altitude valley stretching about 400 kilometers from north to south. The valley is formed by the high mountain ranges of the Ecuadorian Andes, which consist of two parallel chains - the Western and Eastern Cordilleras. The Western Cordilleras include numerous extinct and active volcanoes, more than thirty in total, which stretch in two parallel chains. Among them, Chimborazo (6310 m) stands out as the highest active volcano in the world. In the Quechua language, it means "Snowy Mountain." The Pan-American Highway runs through the valley, allowing one to see the most famous volcanoes of the country in all their glory.
This route through the valley from Quito to Cuenca was poetically named the Road of Volcanoes by Alexander von Humboldt in 1802, after his unsuccessful attempt to climb Chimborazo. Seventy-two years later, the famous English traveler Edward Whymper conquered Chimborazo. The Road of Volcanoes has become one of the main tourist destinations in Ecuador. Traveling along it, you will see nine out of the ten highest volcanoes, which have a pristine, untouched landscape. Almost half of the country's population lives in the high-altitude valley. Here lie ancient cities, national parks have been created, and many solitary indigenous villages exist, where the way of life has not changed for centuries, and each community has preserved its unique lifestyle.

Road of Volcanoes

But let’s talk a little more about the capital of Ecuador. According to Patricio, it is one of the most beautiful cities in South America. It is located 22 kilometers south of the equator at an altitude of 2,850 meters above sea level, which provides it with a very pleasant climate and offers breathtaking panoramas of mountain ranges with snowy peaks visible from any point in the capital.
To the west, Quito is surrounded by the steep walls of the Pichincha volcanic massif. The sky here is bright blue, and the air is clean, clear, and cool. No wonder that in the language of the ancient indigenous tribe of Quitus, the city of Quito means “Settlement in the Mountains.”
Quito was founded in the 10th century AD by the indigenous tribes of Cara and Kitu. In the 11th century, they united into the Kingdom of Kitu. In 1487, it was conquered by the Incas and became the northern edge of their empire. Forty-five years later, in 1532, Spanish conquistadors led by Pizarro arrived here. In 1534, the Spaniards began constructing a new city on the site of ancient Quito, which was to become the center of the conquered indigenous lands. Architecturally, modern Quito is a picturesque mix of old colonial buildings, modern constructions, and poor neighborhoods on the outskirts. The main attractions of the old city, which was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, include a complex of historical buildings around the Independence, Santo Domingo, and San Francisco squares.
Independence Square, or Plaza de La Independencia, also known as Plaza Grande, was built in 1534. Here are located the cathedral, the government palace, the archbishop's palace, and the municipal building. The square is always considered the center of Quito. The cathedral, located on the southern side, was built in 1678. It houses the graves of the most famous people of Ecuador, and its interior is decorated by the best indigenous artist of the colonial period, Caspicara. Adjacent to the cathedral is the church of El Sagrario, which is also famous for its interior. The presidential palace, also located in the square, is guarded by soldiers in the uniforms of the Ecuadorian army from the late 18th century. Nearby rises the oldest women's monastery in the capital, La Concepción-Quito, built in 1577. Directly opposite stands the archbishop's palace, and completing the row of buildings around the square is the modern municipal building, which harmoniously blends with the neighboring colonial structures.
San Francisco Square, in my opinion, is the most beautiful of Quito's squares. Its main decoration is the San Francisco monastery. The extensive complex of monastic buildings and seven equally large inner courtyards make the monastery the largest religious complex in South America.
From San Francisco Square, we head east along Simón Bolívar Street to the third main square of Quito - Santo Domingo, which is famous for its elegant church built by Dominican monks in the sixteenth century.
From Santo Domingo Square, along the narrow pedestrian street Calle Morales, surrounded by colorful buildings with tiny windows and brightly painted balconies, we reached the Bridge of the Black Hawks. From here begins the path to the hill of El Panecillo (translated from Spanish as "little bun") located in the center of the old city. From the statue of the Virgin of Quito, erected at the top of the hill, one can endlessly admire the panoramas of Quito, surrounded by the cones of snowy volcanoes. This wonderful place became a beautiful conclusion to the tour of the capital of Ecuador.

Road of Volcanoes

...The next morning, before heading to the equator, we visited two magnificent museums - one of musical instruments, where more than four thousand exhibits from ancient times to the present are displayed, and one of art, which features paintings and sculptures from the Spanish period of history, as well as works by contemporary artists.
The monument "Middle of the World" was not far away. This landmark is located just 22 kilometers north of Quito. Here is the cultural and entertainment complex "Mitad del Mundo," or translated from Spanish, "Middle of the World." The complex includes a thirty-meter monument marking the zero latitude.
In the 18th century, a French geodetic expedition arrived here to conduct special measurements to accurately map this symbolic belt of the Earth to the centimeter. However, with the advent of new, more accurate navigation equipment, such as GPS, the point of the "middle of the world" had to be moved a few meters north. Now, for convenience, the equator line is marked by a yellow line crossing the entire complex.
Nowhere in the world is there such an authoritatively confirmed zero latitude as here, in the "Middle of the World."
The simple procedure of crossing from one hemisphere to another has been elevated to a cult-like event, and special certificates are printed on embossed paper that document this geographical feat. Besides these geographical wonders, the complex offers a fantastic view of the ancient volcano Papayacta, whose crater is considered one of the largest on the continent.
It was very hot, and there was nowhere to hide from the sun. The only plants around were huge cacti and shrubs. There were plenty of people eager to hop from one hemisphere to another. Local guides demonstrated various wonders related to geographical features. One of the tricks was as follows. A bucket of water was poured into a large funnel. In the right hemisphere, the water swirled into the hole, turning from right to left. In the left hemisphere, it swirled from left to right. And when the funnel was placed exactly on the equator line, it went straight down the hole.
Nearby is the museum "Ethnographic Village." Here, an ancient indigenous settlement has been recreated, showcasing household items, jewelry, ceramics, clothing, weapons, and other artifacts. Wandering through the village is very interesting.
Leaving the ancient streets of the ethnographic complex to the newly arrived tourists, we moved to another nearby center of modern recreation and entertainment with excellent restaurants and bars. In one of them, among fountains and flowerbeds, we enjoyed the wonderful Ecuadorian cuisine.
Our next destination is the northern hemisphere, to the place called Mindo. Here is the kingdom of birds.
From the highlands of Quito, the road descended westward towards Costa. The lower we went, the rarer the clouds, and the thicker and more diverse the vegetation became. For a moment, the clouds dissolved, and we saw that we were surrounded by bright green ridges covered with a dense blanket of plants.
What beauty! What colors! This is the famous rainforest, often referred to as the armor of the Ecuadorian Andes. Inside, it is dark and humid, and it is impossible to walk or drive through. The thickets of the forest are full of secrets and mysteries.
Soon, the rainforest confirmed its name - it started to rain, and the clouds, wrapped in mist, narrowed the visible spaces again.
The rain poured from the heavens in torrents and did not stop for a minute. In Mindo - the kingdom of birds - it did not allow us to delve into the jungles. We had to be content with viewing this paradise through the large windows of a cozy house hidden in the dense forest.

Road of Volcanoes

...Today I woke up at five in the morning. My body is already getting used to the new biorhythm. One more day, and everything will return to normal. The morning was without rain and clouds. Far to the east, a light strip of dawn was visible.
Just behind the house, a path crawled into the green kingdom, and immediately the sense of space was lost. It felt like we were inside a green parallel dimension. The path, like a sponge, squeezed out moisture with every step, which the earth no longer absorbed.
There was no rain, but the forest continued to drip. This was just a short respite. From below, endless rain mists were creeping up, waiting for the forest, which needed moisture for a full life. That’s what a rainforest is for. In this green world, there is no sun, few flowers, and animals.
And then the forest was once again engulfed by a wide front of the stream. It did not shrink from the cold of the rushing streams, did not wilt, did not hide under the eaves of branches and trunks. Rain is the element of these places, their energy and their life. Admiring the rainforest during the rain is a true pleasure. However, the main reason travelers come here is the birds, especially the hummingbirds, which flit about like lively dragonflies in search of floral nectar.
We left Mindo and soon found ourselves in a traffic jam. The road was washed away by a stream of water that had come down from the slope, and to continue our journey, the driver decided to find another route through the jungle.
To avoid tempting fate, we set off on foot. After crossing the formed ravine, we made our way to the road. Patricio was with us. The forest was enchanting. The steep slopes of the mountains were almost impassable due to the lush vegetation. There were no paths, so it was best not to stray from the road. This was for the best. The car, having bypassed the washed-out section, safely emerged from the jungle, and we continued our journey along the Road of Volcanoes.
In the town of Otavalo, we found another refuge at an old Spanish hacienda with a huge garden and museum.
In the morning, we had an excursion around the hacienda-hotel. A beautiful garden, exotic flowers and trees, pathways, parks, and ponds. Old furniture, utensils, paintings, and music transported us back to the 16th century, to the times of Spanish conquistadors.
The day was warm and completely clear. We drove closer to the eastern ridge of the Andes. The ridge part of these relatively low mountains hinted at the silhouettes of ancient volcanoes, calderas, and craters. Leaving the car at the foot of one of the elevations, we climbed a winding path to a significant height, opening up vast spaces of the Valley of Volcanoes.
After walking a little further along the overgrown path, we saw a stunning picture. In the vast bowl of an ancient crater, the blue sapphire of Lake San Pablo sparkled. While we walked along the edge of the crater in search of a suitable spot for a photo, the water in the lake changed color to green, transforming from sapphire to emerald.

Road of Volcanoes

Descending to the car, we drove to Otavalo. But first, at Patricio's initiative, we turned into the small village of Calderón, famous for its tiny figures made from dry dough, baked by the villagers for centuries. Now these figures of people and animals are used as Christmas gifts and decorations. They are very amusing, and I couldn’t resist buying a dozen of these cheerful souvenirs.
“Otavalo” in the language of the Quechua Indians means “valley of dawn.” The city is known for its Saturday indigenous market, which has existed since pre-Incan times. The market in Otavalo is a weekly festive event during which indigenous people sell their crafts or products. The fair participants dress in traditional national clothing. Men wear white ankle-length pants, rough sandals, and reversible blue or gray ponchos. They tie their hair back in a ponytail. Women dress in colorful embroidered blouses, long black skirts, shawls, and wear necklaces and bracelets.
The area where the fair takes place is divided into two parts. One sells fresh food, while the other features handicrafts. The Otavalo fair is a true museum of indigenous culture. Here you can see how carving and painting of products made from pumpkin and wood occurs. The variety of necklaces and beads is simply dazzling. Wool ponchos made from llama and vicuña, sweaters and hats, ceramics, leather and bone products from animals and fish, paintings and masks, sacred figurines of gods and potions, parrot feathers, and much more, unknown to us, people from the other hemisphere. Wandering through this fairy-tale city can take an endless amount of time. And each time a stall reveals something new. You want to buy everything, but...
The next day, leaving Otavalo, we continued our journey along the Road of Volcanoes. Heading southeast. Outside the window were mountains covered with a green blanket and pyramids of distant volcanoes.
We were in a national park, where one of the highest volcanoes on Earth, Cotopaxi (5897 meters), is located. On its slope, at an altitude of 3220 meters, is the tourist and wellness complex Papayacta, which owes its presence to hot springs of volcanic origin. The temperature of the springs in the initial stage ranges from 30° to 70°C, while the temperature of the water in the pools is between 36° and 42°C. Here, a small hotel has been built in the shape of volcanic deposits, inside which there is again a pool with hot water. It was also interesting to see the original rooms with a fireplace and a hot tub in a niche.
Looking at all this exoticism, I remembered my native Kyrgyzstan, about the hot springs of Altyn-Arashan near Karakol, and thought that something similar could be arranged there too. After all, the surrounding nature is no worse.
In addition to the springs, the park also features a unique ethnographic village, Niebli. It is located inside an extinct volcanic crater and surrounded by subtropical impenetrable forest.
In the morning, before leaving these beautiful places, we decided to take a hiking trip through the national park to the ridge of the Andes. Along the way, we were accompanied by llamas and other animals, the path ran between bushes blooming with red bells, jumped over a mountain stream, pressed against rocks and waterfalls. Finally, we reached the summit, which held breathtaking views of the surroundings.

Road of Volcanoes

..The Jumandi Cave was located at the base of a mountain, disappearing into the clouds, densely covered with tropical vegetation. At the foot was an aquapark, the waters of which were born from the cave. Judging by the stream flowing from under the massif, the cave is enormous. The local guide, while we were preparing to visit it, told us that the length of the underground palace is about three kilometers. We were getting ready to put on wetsuits, helmets, and safety belts, but the guide unexpectedly suggested we stay in swimsuits and bathing suits. And so, in this unusual attire for a spelunker, we ventured into the depths of the Earth.
A powerful stream of water spread across the entire width of the tunnel. We followed the guide closely, as only he knew the channel. The water reached almost to our waists. If you took a step to the side, you would plunge in headfirst. It all looked amusing, especially for me, a seasoned spelunker. I had never seen such an attraction before. The cave was full of stalactites and other very impressive formations resembling “onions” and “carrots.” In some places, the stream ended in a waterfall right in front of us, and the underwater path went around it by the wall. The tunnel periodically changed in size from a narrow passage to a huge hall, offering space for lakes and roaring waterfalls.
Soon daylight appeared. This was the exit from the cave. Here ended the tourist path. The cave continued deeper into unexplored spaces.
Emerging into the open air, we found ourselves under a warm pouring rain, so our swimming attire turned out to be quite appropriate. We descended along the wet, slippery, and softened path from frequent rains to the entrance of the cave and jumped straight from the shore into the waters of the aquapark.
Next, we headed south. Everything was wrapped in clouds. Nothing was visible except the road winding through the slopes of invisible mountains. Occasionally, it crawled into long, dark tunnels without lighting, from which water dripped from the ceiling and walls. After one of these tunnels, the world suddenly opened up in bright green colors, and the landscape changed dramatically. The open mountain views were replaced by jungles, and in the valleys, as expected, the blue of the river sparkled.
The city of Puyo is the gateway to the Amazon jungle, home to the indigenous people of the Chibaro culture, as well as the Guá ethnic group, which is of great interest to anthropologists. The Chibaro tribe possesses the secret of drying human heads, but they keep this in strict secrecy.
In Puyo, we settled in the "Flor de Canela" hotel with a beautiful garden of exotic trees and flowers. The chalets hidden in the jungle seemed, to me, even overly exotic. Our room, for example, I called "the stone den with a jacuzzi."
The hotel was filled with a festive atmosphere, as today they were expecting a team of girls from all provinces of Ecuador for the final qualifying contest for "Miss Ecuador," which we witnessed.
In the morning, it was warm and sunny. A wonderful time for jungle adventures. And off we go!
The path straight from the hotel alley led into the dense green kingdom. The vegetation was thick, and the visible world shrank to the width of the path. It crawled along the slope, rising and falling into the valley. Somewhere in the invisible green depths, streams and waterfalls gurgled. There were no volumes or focus, and all my efforts to capture what I saw on camera were in vain.
Overall, the tropical jungle was both frightening and alluring with its unknowns. But we needed to return to continue our main journey along the Road of Volcanoes.

Road of Volcanoes

...Alauzi is a small town. In the center, on a hill, stands a soaring statue of San Pedro (Saint Peter), with a well-kept lawn and flowerbeds. After the rain, an enormous number of rhinoceros beetles literally covered the square. We came here to participate in an almost circus attraction - a journey to the rock "Devil’s Nose."
Small people in national costumes filled the miniature streets and squares. At the entrance to the bank, a silent crowd in colorful ponchos lined up for the monthly allowance that the government gives to indigenous people. The allowance is small, about fifty dollars. Nevertheless, with this money, one can live for a month in Ecuador.
According to the schedule, the train (or rather, a locomotive without cars) departs from the station every hour from eight to fourteen. But sometimes it breaks down, and then the departure - arrival is delayed indefinitely. As expected, our train was also postponed by an hour, which we had to spend in a tiny café.
The train departs from the station, descends into the lowland, gathers itself for a while, and then, gathering strength and thoughts, climbs up the Devil’s Nose (the name of the mountain). The passengers, mostly foreign tourists, sit on the roof, from where the view is much better and the impressions are stronger. Naturally, there are no seats on the roof. Tourists sit directly on it, dangling their legs. The train is equipped with a mechanism that tilts the locomotive in the vertical plane on the turns to avoid tipping over.
The city of Cuenca was founded on the site of the destroyed city by Spanish rulers in 1557. In 1999, UNESCO declared the city a cultural heritage of humanity. And this is fair, as Cuenca, as I personally confirmed, is one of the most beautiful colonial cities in Ecuador. It can be called a classic of European colonial architecture. Cuenca is very similar to Old Quito - cobblestone streets, colonial buildings with inner courtyards and magnificent balconies, a huge number of diverse museums and temples...
Our cozy hotel "Crespo" is located in the historic district of Cuenca. Narrow streets, little restaurants, shops, cobbled streets, and the narrow embankment of Tomebamba are all soaked in a provincial medieval atmosphere. This impression is enhanced by the medieval monuments that surround everywhere.
In Cuenca, you feel like you have entered a city of a special intelligence; it is aristocratic, without slums and noisy markets, a city of artists and writers, poets and musicians. Strolling through its narrow streets is a pleasure. In cozy restaurants, there is elegance and respect. In traditional coffee houses, the best coffee in Ecuador is brewed, and magical guitar music plays. By noon, the organ in numerous churches does not cease.
I personally liked Cuenca very much. I saw the city of my dreams, where I want to live, create, and build, love, and rejoice in being human.

Road of Volcanoes

In the evening, there was a big carnival in Cuenca. Musical groups performed. Everyone was greeted by the president of Ecuador, Carrera, who had specially arrived here.
The main event of the carnival was the fireworks, which were significantly different from the Chinese ones. We witnessed a real competition of various teams. Complex multi-tiered structures were built, which were set in motion after the first ignition. Everything spun in the end, shooting off with noise and smoke in various directions. Glowing comets filled the night sky. Each such machine worked hard and amazed the crowd.
The thunder was so loud that it was impossible to hear each other. At the same time, glowing balloons were launched into the sky. People danced, spraying each other with something fragrant. In short, they were having a great time.
Cuenca is also famous for its sunny Panama hats. Since the 19th century, Cuenca has become the center of their production. These hats gained immense popularity during the construction of the great Panama Canal. Since then, Panama hat production has become a profitable business. Today, it is one of the main export directions of Ecuador's economy.
Our journey was coming to an end. Today we leave the high-altitude Sierra and head down to Costa, to the oceanic coast of Ecuador. Farewell, Road of Volcanoes, farewell, Cuenca, and the high mountains... But before leaving these beautiful places, we visit the ruins of Ingapirca. This mountain landmark was an indigenous village before it became an Inca fortress. The park organized here allows for an excursion into the past, to see the sacred places where worship of the moon took place before the Incas, and during the Incas, the worship of the sun. On the territory of the park is a solar observatory, which has a functioning Inca calendar.
...In the morning, it was raining again. The mountains were closed in fog. The road was winding and almost not congested with cars. The clouds were not very dense, and we were fortunate enough to admire the beautiful mountain landscapes once more. After the pass, the road crossed the territory of some national park. There was only thirty minutes allowed for passage. Stopping was not permitted. The landscapes were very beautiful, but unfortunately, I could not take any pictures. What a pity, I think, it would have been possible to stop for a couple of minutes. Nothing can be done, Ecuadorians are law-abiding people.
Descending from the Andes, we drove along the Pacific Ocean coast. Now we were surrounded by Costa. The heat was about 35 degrees. The sky was cloudless. A completely different world. A country of banana plantations and cocoa.
By evening, we reached the city of Guayaquil - the last port of our Ecuadorian cruise.

Road of Volcanoes

Guayaquil is a city I knew from childhood through books about the adventures of pirates. And, of course, I never thought I would end up in the places of my youthful dreams.
We settled in the wonderful "Prince Hotel" with pools and bars. We wanted to go into the city right away to the famous Pirate waterfront. But Patricio advised against it, saying it was dangerous. His words sounded convincing, and we preferred to rest in the hotel instead of taking a night walk.
Before wishing us good night, Patricio told us a bit about the city. Guayaquil is the main port of Ecuador and the economic capital of the country. It was founded in 1535 at the mouth of the Guayas River. The main attractions of the city are Bolívar Square with the cathedral and the wide Malecón waterfront, adorned with botanical alleys with fountains and sculptures. It is a large city with a population of over two and a half million people.
Guayaquil was founded in 1537 by the Spanish and named Santiago de Guayaquil (in honor of the indigenous chief Guaya and his wife Kila). In 1822, a conference was held in Guayaquil, where Simón Bolívar led the movement for the liberation of South America. Currently, 85% of the country’s foreign trade passes through Guayaquil.
I would add to this information that in the Middle Ages, Guayaquil, like the famous Port Royal in Cuba, was a haven for pirates, where they returned after their travels, divided the spoils, and enjoyed themselves in numerous taverns.
In the morning, as soon as the sun peeked into the windows of the "Prince Hotel," we set off into the city. To jump ahead, I will say that Guayaquil did not meet my expectations. Instead of a bustling port city with cheerful taverns and markets, I saw a large, ordinary, and even somewhat provincial center. The entire waterfront was occupied by yacht clubs and administrative buildings.
And yet, I found pirates in the restored and well-kept "Santa Ana" fort, located on the main elevation of Guayaquil. In the park, laid out at the top of the hill, stood a monument to an unknown pirate, an operating pirate tavern, and a huge anchor from the famous ship "Adventure" of Captain Kidd.
After a brief rain, it became hot and unbearably stuffy. Sweat poured down like a tropical rain. But then the sun came out, and Guayaquil sparkled with the bright colors of the day.
After lunch - the airport. A hasty farewell. Fortunately, there were no formalities. Just a ticket, passport, and safe travels.
Farewell, Ecuador! Thank you, Ecuador! Prosper, Ecuador! The slow Ecuadorian tango that brightened the wait for takeoff accompanied us. The magical melody flowing from the strings of the Ecuadorian guitar returned us to the world of magical days. They flared up in moments of memory: Quito from the height of the statue of the Virgin of Quito, hummingbirds in Mindo, the noise of the Otavalo market, the hot springs of Papayacta, the Jumandi cave, waterfalls on the ancient Inca trail, rainforests and jungles. And, of course, the girls of Ecuador, beautiful as the light of the morning dawn.
6-07-2014, 13:06
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