The airport in Manila is as crowded as an anthill. There are a huge number of flights. The Philippines is an archipelago of islands. Ten of them are the largest, where eighty percent of the population lives. The most convenient way to travel between the islands is by air. Planes continuously take off from here in all directions. Air routes, following a complex scheme through the islands, return to Manila. For example, you cannot fly directly from Bohol to Cebu or, say, from Cebu to Palawan. In each case, you have to return to Manila. Therefore, when traveling around the Philippines, you have to return to Manila several times to catch another flight. Of course, you can also use sea transport, but that requires significantly more time.
The flight to Bohol takes just over an hour. On the island, a powerful tropical downpour is pouring, a real hot shower. But it doesn't last long. Soon the sun appears, which quickly evaporates the moisture that has just fallen from the sky. Tagbilaran is the main city of Bohol with a population of about 100,000 people.
Our resort is right on the shore of an exotic lagoon. A rocky coast, wrapped in a network of tropical forest roots, mysterious caves washed by the tide—this is, so to speak, the view from the outside. When the gates of the resort closed behind us, I thought—this is paradise on earth. Perhaps the owner of this little resort also dreamed of seeing paradise and created it on this distant Philippine shore. The beauty of this amazing corner is hard to describe. You have to see it. Hanging gardens sprinkled with bright flowers, pools overlooking the sea, a church, gazebos and ponds, fairy-tale pavilions, an open restaurant, lighting, music... And comfortable rooms with access to stairs and platforms leading to the sea and the pier. All of this is in absolute harmony.
Of course, I reasoned, here, in the conditions of the Philippine climate, there are significantly more opportunities for imagination and architectural solutions. Firstly, it is eternal summer here; there is no need to insulate or think about heating systems. To maintain a comfortable temperature, an air conditioner is sufficient. Bathtubs in the rooms are usually open to the sky, with exotic trees and flowers growing right in them.
In the morning, we swim in the sea, with coral reefs right off the shore.
Then the pool, breakfast. Servants bow around us, smile, and wish us good morning. We even feel a bit awkward.
At nine, our guide arrives—a lively Filipina. Her name is Maile. We travel by minibus to get acquainted with Bohol. However, sometimes many pronounce it more softly—Bakhole. The island is of volcanic origin. The maximum height is 870 meters above sea level. The coastline stretches for 261 km. Bohol is surrounded by seventy small islands, the largest of which, Panglao, is connected to it by a highway.
The residents of Bohol are considered descendants of the aboriginal Pintados, which literally means "painted," that is, tattooed people. The name of the island comes from the locality of Boool, where in 1565 a historical treaty of friendship was signed between the local chieftain Datu Sikaton and a representative of the Spanish crown, Miguel de Legazpi. This treaty, sealed with blood, is still of great importance to the island. In memory of the event, a monument depicting the moment of signing the treaty has been erected.
The road ran through tropical thickets. Warm rain poured onto the ground several times an hour. Along the highway, there are flower meadows, and almost every house has flower terraces instead of fences. Flowers are everywhere! They don't even need to be buried in the ground. It is enough to hang the stem with the root, and that is enough for its life, as it feeds on moisture directly from the air.
Around noon, we arrived at the shore of a wide river called Loboc. Descending to the water, we passed by dense thickets of water coconuts to a floating restaurant made of bamboo trunks.
After a few minutes of waiting, our restaurant boat, towed by a motorboat, sets off on a cruise along the mysterious river. The banks are hardly visible—dense green masses of plants surround us. Our time glides smoothly over the water's surface. A young Filipino sings songs while playing the guitar. Around us are exotic decorations for films about treasure hunts and mysterious tribes. Here it is, the materialization of thought! From the shore, the sound of drums is heard, and a crowd of natives with spears and arrows dances in a magical circle among the palm trees on the shore.
Our floating restaurant docked at the shore. A noisy crowd of natives in loincloths made of coconut fibers greets us with mysterious shouts. With spears and arrows, they demonstrate their combat skills. To the beat of the drums, they perform rhythmic dances and acrobatic tricks.
This is the settlement of the local Ati tribe, our guide explains. A kind of staged excursion into the history of Bohol. However, not so distant. Just about one hundred and fifty years ago, it was like this here. Now, of course, this performance is exclusively for tourists. Straw houses, costumes, bamboo drums—all very realistic and interesting.
After taking photos with the chiefs, their wives, and the cheerful Ati people, we return to our boat to continue our journey along the path of adventure.
For today's Filipinos, Bohol is primarily the land of the Chocolate Hills. On the plateau in the middle of the island, there are densely packed 1,268 limestone hills of regular shape with steep slopes, ranging from 30 to 100 meters high. Almost in the center of the plateau, at the foot of Carmen Hill, the path to the land of the Chocolate Hills begins. The winding trail that climbs to the top reveals a panorama of the Chocolate Hills of extraordinary beauty, stretching beyond the visible horizon. At first glance, it seems that the hills are a titanic creation of man. The slopes are covered with green-yellow grass, which dries in the sun from February to May, turning the hills chocolate-colored.
How did these unusual hills come into being? The most likely version is that they are the result of prolonged weathering.
However, folk legends explain their origin in their own way. According to one of the legends, the hills appeared as a result of a battle between two giants who threw stones at each other for many days. Tired of fighting, the giants resolved their differences peacefully and left the island as friends, while the stones remained lying there.
It is also said that the name "Chocolate Hills" was given by Americans, as they resemble chocolate truffles in shape. Some see them as haystacks in a field, while others see them as alien huts.
All visitors are eager to see the amazing animals that inhabit only two places on the planet—Bohol and some islands of Indonesia. We are talking about tarsiers, small creatures that can fit in the palm of a human hand, with huge eyes that look more like representatives of an extraterrestrial civilization. Tarsiers belong to the species of lemur-like primates.
In search of these charming animals, we went to the Carella Reserve in a specially fenced park. It was drizzling, and the little half-asleep monkeys were hiding under the leaves of the trees. They could be taken in the palm of your hand and hidden back under the leaves. Their large bulging eyes are full of kindness and wonder. It turned out that these tiny creatures are nocturnal, hunting insects at night, while during the day they remain in a semi-dreamy state, indifferent to the events happening around them.
On a ship called "Super Cat," we crossed the waters between Bohol and Cebu. This took about two hours. It rained almost continuously. Therefore, instead of the promised wonderful landscapes, we had to settle for watching an American film about figure skaters.
In Cebu, we were met and escorted to the Blue Water resort. I must say, it is a beautiful place. Exotic huts with all the comforts of civilization for living, pools, greenhouses. There are many vacationers, including from Russia. Many tempting bars and nightclubs, but of course, for a lot of money.
The city of Cebu is located on the island of the same name in the central part of the Philippine archipelago. It was founded in 1565. It is the second-largest city in the country with a population of over one million residents and the largest resort center. The island is famous for its beaches and picturesque coral reefs. It was here that Magellan landed in 1521, who is credited with the discovery of the Philippines. We already know about the tragic fate of the famous navigator. At the end of the 19th century, a monument was erected to him in the city of Cebu.
We quickly visit the first Spanish fort, San Pedro, built in 1565. In the same year, the Minor Basilica of the Santo Niño was erected, which features an image of the infant Jesus. The wooden statuette, crafted by Flemish masters, was brought to the island by Ferdinand Magellan himself and presented to the local queen during her conversion to Christianity.
Next, we visit a guitar and Philippine mandolin manufacturing center, colonial-style streets, and the Chinese quarter, where a wonderful Taoist temple was built with community funds.
In the morning, we set out, or rather, head out to sea. Our destination is one of the many islands scattered here like pearls. We were expecting a true underwater paradise, but my desire to look underwater did not come true. The mask did not fit me. Water seeped through invisible cracks, and I had to imagine the beauty of the underwater world from the stories of my friends, whose admiration knew no bounds.
To pass the time, I wander around the island. It is uninhabited and very tiny. There is a single hotel built for divers right on stilts among the coral reefs. And in a few bamboo chalets and gazebos, there is a cozy restaurant. Here, upon the return of all the crew members, a lavish seafood lunch was arranged.
It is said that with the arrival of spring, whales swim to the shores of the island. The best time to observe them is from March to May. It’s a pity we won’t meet them.
Upon returning to Cebu, we say goodbye to our guide Maile and make our way to our blue waters on foot. On the narrow street, there are many souvenir shops. One of them particularly impressed me with its goods and decor. In two levels of a spacious room, the theme of the underwater world is presented. I never thought there could be such a variety of sea shells. There are huge shells weighing several kilograms. Many wonderfully beautiful things are made from them. There are dishes, vases, jewelry... While I admired the products of local artisans, a Russian couple entered the shop. Unaware that someone else spoke Russian here, she excitedly shared her impressions of the Philippines. This stuck in my mind: “If I had a pile of money and the freedom to choose a place to live, I would choose the Philippines. And I would live in paradise...”.
Evening was approaching. We went out to the waterfront. The sky was covered with a low blanket of rain clouds. Only far away over the visible mountains did an open strip of evening sky stretch over the ridge. It happened unexpectedly. Suddenly, over the peak, through a gap that had formed, a golden stream of sunlight poured down. Soon the gap transformed into a perfect circle, through which a golden-ruby sunset flowed down the slopes in an unstoppable stream.
I frantically unpack my camera. I click shot after shot, but it’s already too late. The moment has passed, drowned in the past, leaving only a beautiful memory of Cebu.