Choosing a Tourist Flashlight
It's time to talk about another very important element of a tourist's gear - the flashlight. It doesn't matter if you're going on a short day trip that might end closer to nightfall or a multi-day hike - it will be difficult without a flashlight. Depending on the complexity and specifics of the event, "difficult" can mean anything from ordinary discomfort to danger and even threats to life and health.
Main uses of lighting devices:
Did you not make it to the campsite on time? Planned a long hiking day? Got lost? Is it dark? If everyone in the group has a good flashlight, it is often possible to move along the route even in the dark.
Main requirements for a light source on the march:
a strong directed beam of light for better orientation on the route (primarily for the leader, for routes using a rope, it's good when the beam illuminates the entire length of the rope, i.e., at least 50 m;
diffused light of moderate strength for those following – to see the trail and obstacles on it, the ability to illuminate a map;
a protected design of the flashlight – the ability to move in adverse weather conditions, not fearing minor impacts and falls.
Lighting at the bivouac.
Often, camp work is done in the dark – in the evening or early morning, or even at night, for example, before a climb. Setting up and taking down the tent, gathering and bringing firewood, going for water, cooking food – all of this is much easier with good light. Light is also needed inside the tent, in a forest hut, or a shelter if there is no electricity.
In most cases, a powerful light is not needed for a bivouac. Often, illuminating an area of ten to twenty meters is sufficient. Moreover, too strong a light is often excessive and can be distracting. Diffused light is generally preferred over a narrow directed beam. It allows for a more natural and comfortable feeling and is less blinding to others. Sometimes, a dim light, preferably red, is preferred. It does not blind, does not distract night vision, and helps to read a map or find something in the tent without disturbing others.
Special cases. Force majeure.
Rescue operations. This is unpleasant, but it does happen.
Providing assistance. Sometimes, help is needed for others. Occasionally, it is needed for us or group members.
And not always is the sun shining.
Searching for the lost. Requires good organization and, if at night or in the evening, good light. Very good light.
In a serious hike, if the group exceeds 5-6 participants, it is useful to have a backup light for such cases – a very powerful compact flashlight with a fresh power source. Ideally, from 500 lumens. If you don't have one, always keep fresh batteries on hand.
Visiting caves and artificial underground structures. Here, a reliable flashlight is simply necessary. That is, the main criterion will be reliability, and the second, the strength of the light.
Summarizing.
For most hikes, the main requirements for a light source will be:
reliability (loss or breakage is fraught; carrying spare flashlights on a hike is extra weight and space)
ease of use, ergonomics (often you will have to use it by touch, in gloves, in uncomfortable positions; having different operating modes;
compactness and light weight (since you will have to carry it);
economy (so you don't have to carry half a backpack of batteries; ideally, the ones in the flashlight should suffice)
and, of course, bright light.
What to use for lighting?
The time of light sources based on combustion processes has passed. When we have a choice, battery-powered flashlights are generally used. Ordinary incandescent bulbs are becoming a thing of the past, and they are being replaced by LEDs. More precisely, they have already arrived. So if you are still using an old-fashioned flashlight with a regular bulb – replace it as soon as possible with something more modern, with LEDs. LEDs are more economical and much more reliable than incandescent bulbs, and their lifespan is significantly longer.
At the same time, it should be remembered that not all LEDs are the same. The strength of light and efficiency of different models can vary significantly.
Considering other types of gear, I have already noted – when going on a serious hike, avoid experimental and questionable designs – let others test them, or you can do it when your life and health do not depend on it. A flashlight bought in a kiosk may save you money but can let you down at a critical moment. The same applies to super-modern designs with intelligent control.
Handheld or headlamp?
Most experienced travelers have long resolved this dilemma by choosing a headlamp as their main light source. Once, a French speleologist with a strange surname for us, Petzl, realized how much more convenient it is to have hands free and began to mass-produce headlamps (the PETZL brand, of course). Free hands are not only convenient but also much safer.
Currently, the market offers a great variety of headlamps. The choice is wide, and everyone can find a solution to suit their taste and budget.
At the same time, a compact handheld flashlight can serve as your backup option. For instance, if you already have one, take it with you "just in case." It's better to choose something smaller.
In some cases, it wouldn't hurt for the group to take a special camping lantern that provides bright diffused light. It can be hung above the table to illuminate the shelter or tent.
Important!
Battery usage. There are two main types of battery usage in flashlights.
A flashlight gradually uses the charge of the battery (accumulator). At first, it shines the brightest. As the charge decreases, the flashlight shines weaker. The reduction in brightness continues until the battery is completely discharged. So, if at first the flashlight shines at 70 meters, by the end it will barely illuminate a 5-10 meter area.
A flashlight with a constant level of illumination. Such a flashlight has a regulator built in that maintains a constant level of illumination. The stated level is maintained almost until the battery is fully discharged. That is, if the manufacturer claims a range of 50 meters, it will be maintained until the battery is completely drained. When nearly fully discharged, some such designs can switch to a power-saving mode on their own. The operating time of such flashlights is significantly shorter.
Which design to prefer on a hike? The answer is unlikely to be unambiguous. At first glance, the second option seems more progressive and convenient. At the same time, most travelers should still choose the first. It is more reliable for hiking conditions, and reliability is the main criterion in a hike. You will not be threatened by a sudden flashlight shutdown at the most inconvenient moment, and the strength of the light immediately indicates the degree of battery discharge. A "dying" LED flashlight of the first type can last a long time if you don't have spare batteries on hand.
However, if you are a perfectionist in organization and prefer good light all the time, not just in the first hours of use, if "oh, I forgot the batteries on the fridge" does not apply to you, if having a backup flashlight is your norm, then you should probably consider the second option. Undoubtedly, it should be the primary choice where uncompromising lighting quality is needed – for military, athletes, emergency services, and so on…
Cold and its effect on the flashlight.
In the cold, most power sources significantly lose capacity. This should be taken into account. If you are going to use a flashlight in the cold for an extended period, you should be prepared to take some actions. What can be done?
Maximally insulate the power sources from the cold. If conditions allow, keep the flashlight in your hand; you can wrap the battery compartment with a spare hat, mitten, or something else if the design allows it.
If the flashlight is mounted on your forehead, and the battery compartment occupies one module with the reflector – wear the flashlight directly on your head or over a balaclava, and pull a hat over it so that it covers the flashlight from above and the sides. You can make a thermal protective cover from available materials. Just remember to keep access to the controls.
If winter use is normal for you – get a flashlight with a separate battery block. It is easier to protect from the cold, although such designs are bulkier. However, they are generally more powerful and autonomous.
Close to ideal for working in the cold are designs (often referred to as BELT) with an external power supply on a long cord. It can easily be hidden under clothing. Moreover, your head will be free of extra weight.
Another option is to use batteries or accumulators that are less affected by the cold. For instance, the world-renowned flashlight manufacturer Fenix offers batteries for most of its models designed for use at temperatures down to -30 degrees. However, it should still be understood that even they will experience a decrease in operational characteristics, just to a lesser extent.
Important to know
Before buying, pay attention to such characteristics as:
Weight (usually indicated without power sources, clarify). The less, the better. In compact flashlights, batteries and reflectors are placed in one housing, which is convenient and compact; if the weight of the flashlight exceeds 100g, batteries are usually carried in a separate compartment at the back of the head, making the flashlight bulkier and sometimes less convenient.
Light output power. Measured in lumens. The figures are usually given for fully charged batteries. I do not recommend chasing lumens. The market offers flashlights that produce hundreds and even thousands of lumens, while being compact. For travel, their power is often excessive. If you have to pay for it with autonomy, weight, size, and price – ask yourself, do you really need it? Standards in the compact flashlight segment are changing. Not long ago, a maximum power of 30-50 lumens was considered sufficient; now it is more in the range of 80-150 lumens. Keep in mind that in most cases, brighter light will mean less autonomy.
Autonomy. For first-type flashlights (gradually decreasing power depending on discharge), in my opinion, an autonomy of about 100 hours is acceptable for hiking mode. By the end of this period, the flashlight will only adequately illuminate the space immediately around you. Nevertheless, this is enough to complete an average 10-14 day hike without changing batteries. If carrying spare power sources is not a burden for you, autonomy will not be a primary selection criterion.
Operating modes. Choose a flashlight with several operating modes. Ideally, there should be:
long-range light (narrow beam);
medium mode (convenient for walking);
low light (convenient for camping, setting up tents; it’s good when the light is diffused and unfocused);
strobe mode (for signaling);
red light (to look at a map, find something in the tent without disturbing others);
boost mode (a short-term super mode to see something at maximum distance for a short time);
protection level (usually indicated according to accepted standards with the IPX index and numbers. For example, an IPX-54 protection level only indicates protection from splashes and rain. If you want a fully waterproof flashlight that allows short-term immersion at 1-2m and protection from impacts and dust, look for a product with IPX-67…68 ratings).
The information provided will help you purchase a suitable flashlight that will make your life in hikes better and brighter!
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