Men's trousers were made from various materials. They used calico, home-produced fabrics, sheep and goat skins, suede, and factory-made fabrics (wool, velvet, dense cotton). The cut depended on the material. Trousers of all shapes were closed, and they were tightened with a woolen cord called "gashnik" ("ычкыр"), which was threaded through a fold and tied in front. The ends of the gashnik in the traditional costume of young men were decorated with embroidery made of bright colored wool or silk and colored tassels.
Typical summer trousers (ыштан, дамбал, ылазым) for Central Asia were made from calico and cotton fabric, reaching up to the ankles and featuring a very wide stride (Fig. 134, a). The width of the stride was determined by a large diamond-shaped insert (Fig. 134, b), obtained during cutting (a cut from a fabric folded four times). They were worn and continue to be worn in combination with a buttoned shirt called "джегде".
The northern Kyrgyz tailored trousers in a completely analogous manner.
The cut of winter trousers made from dense woolen fabrics (таар шым, пийаз шым) was somewhat different. The insert was made smaller in the shape of wedge-shaped pieces, tapering to the waist and rounded along the stride line (Fig. 134, c).
Trousers made from sheepskin (терашым) were sewn significantly narrower, consisting of pieces of different shapes (Fig. 134, d). They were worn with the fur inside. In the cut of "теру шым," there is a complete analogy between southern and northern Kyrgyz. Their existence has deep historical roots, as evidenced by the similarity to trousers found in the Kenkol burial ground.
Trousers "теке шим" were made from suede dyed orange. They were sewn wide, with a rounded stride line and quite wide at the bottom, as they were worn over shoes (Fig. 134, d). Slits were made on the sides of the lower part of the trousers, but this was not accepted everywhere.
A distinctive feature of suede trousers was that they were embroidered with colored silk. The pattern was usually placed at the bottom of the trousers and on the sides. The embroidery technique undoubtedly speaks of a deep tradition: all types of loop stitches were used. Sometimes the embroidery consisted only of a series of intermittent stitches called "секиртме," arranged along the side seams.
When setting off on a long journey, the hems of the robe were usually tucked into the wide trousers. For example, it was written about the Alai Kyrgyz: "His entire figure disappeared in the vast leather chimbars. Chimbars are very wide trousers that tighten at the waist: in bad weather, Kyrgyz hide the long hems of their robes in them." Similar trousers were also worn by Uzbeks and Kazakhs. Suede trousers were typical for all groups of Kyrgyz.
According to the stories of the elders, suede trousers were considered an attribute of the costume of a wealthy Kyrgyz. In the past, they were worn at weddings, during sports competitions (goat riding - кёк беру), and also for hunting. The cost of embroidered suede trousers was no less than the cost of a horse.
The deep historical roots of suede trousers among the Kyrgyz are vividly evidenced by their mention in the folk epic "Manas": they were an integral part of a warrior's clothing.
Men's clothing of the Kyrgyz. Buttoned shirt
