Pik Gorkogo (6050 m) - located in the Central Tien Shan in the Tengri-Tag ridge.
The southern slope of Pik Maksima Gorkogo features an extensive bowl of a hanging glacier. At its exit, the glacier forms a 350-meter icefall, with the total length of the glacier being 2.5 km. A second ridge separates the basins of the Gorkogo and Stvora glaciers; at its rocky end, a mark was made in 1955 to fix the line for determining the movement speed of the Inylchek glacier. From the western shoulder of the peak, a long northern ridge extends with the snowy summit of Valentin Gusev (4700 m), separating the basin of the Sukhodolskiy and Gusev glaciers. The Gusev valley glacier (5 km) initially stretches along the steep northern wall of Maksim Gorkiy, then turns north, merging with the Northern Inylchek.
The first ascent to the summit was made in 1962, and the first wall route (and immediately of the highest, 6th category of difficulty) along the well-known Northwest wall of the Northeast summit was completed by a team from Sverdlovsk region (leader Yermachek Yu.V., master of sports, coach Mikhailov A.A., master of sports, honored trainer) in 2001 as part of the national championship (2nd place).
On August 24, 2004, four Ural climbers representing the Sverdlovsk regional team ascended a new route to the Northeast summit (6010 m) of the Maksim Gorkiy massif (6050 m) after ten days of climbing.
The new route runs along the left part of the Northwest wall. The height difference from the bergschrund to the summit is 1500 meters. The average steepness of the route is about 60 degrees. The main part (from the bergschrund to the exit to the pre-summit ridge) includes 35 ropes. The lower part (18 ropes) consists of ice with a steepness of up to 55 degrees, followed by a rock wall with a steepness of over 60 degrees, with some sections reaching up to 75 degrees. Overall, the route has a combined nature – a mix of rock, ice, and snow. Approximately 6th category of difficulty.
