Plant Patterns of Southern Kyrgyz Embroidery

Southern Kyrgyz Embroidery

The next ornamental motif characteristic of southern Kyrgyz embroidery is the depiction of a leaf. It is presented in several variations. The most typical of them are the lanceolate double-sided leaf, the lanceolate leaf with cutouts on one side, and the leaf with symmetrical cutouts on both sides (fig. 65, 12—14). The reproduction of the leaf is so realistic that there is complete consistency in naming: berk (leaf), tal berki (willow leaf). However, if the leaf is depicted with a curled end, it is referred to as a horn (“kochkorok”), and within the group of ичкилик, it is invariably called “kaykalak.”

A very popular pattern in southern Kyrgyz embroidery is the one known as “kalampir” and “balam” (fig. 65, 15—17), which is also known by different names in Kyrgyz pile carpets.

This pattern is often bordered with a jagged or wavy line, and inside it, variations of a trefoil or pentafolium are sometimes placed.

The mentioned pattern is noted in the embroidery on the “dikak” saddles, as well as on decorative strips called “tegirich.”

Often in Kyrgyz embroidery, a pattern resembling a lyre, a vase, or a pomegranate fruit is encountered (fig. 65, 18—22). Besides the name “anar,” others such as komuz til and tay tuyak (foal's hoof) are also widespread. Various variations of it are embroidered, with different finials and internal fillings (more often filled with trefoil motifs with curls). Its edges are usually decorated with a wavy or jagged line. This pattern is most frequently found on the edges of wrap-around skirts, on “dikak” saddles, and on bags made of dense white fabric.

In ancient embroideries on leather and white fabric, a pattern depicting a wheat ear, known as narvana (“charva” — household), was adopted. It may have appeared in connection with the development of agriculture among the Kyrgyz. In later embroideries (on velvet), this pattern disappears.

Just like in all other forms of ornamental art among the Kyrgyz, the embroidery of southern Kyrgyz people widely features the depiction of a rosette with a wavy border, called by embroiderers “toguz dyobyo” (fig. 65, 25, 26, 30). Sometimes this pattern is referred to as “chit,” indicating its reproduction from fabric. But it is more often called a flower.

The term flower is used by artisans to describe many patterns, encompassing a broader concept. A pattern with this name includes various rosettes, medallions, sometimes of great complexity. In southern Kyrgyz embroidery, a great variety of them is noted. In fig. 65, we present some of them. They include combinations of trefoils, horn-like curls, lyre-like figures, etc. Sometimes the pattern is named after the predominant motif within it.

The artistic expressiveness of the embroidery is enhanced by the branch pattern, the most frequently encountered variations of which are represented in fig. 65 (33—34, 36—38). It was embroidered on both ancient items made of leather and felt, as well as on velvet.

The pattern has various variants and the same names as in woven items with one-sided and double-sided arrangements of leaves. A motif in the shape of a “fir tree” is also found.

It is customary to depict a tree in embroidery, which is presented as a trunk with symmetrical branches (fig. 65, 35, 39, 48), which is known in Kyrgyz pile weaving.

The pattern “chaidosh,” “chainik kochot” has nothing to do with the name and usually consists of symmetrically arranged lines with bends, between which various simple motifs are placed (fig. 65, 40). It is predominantly embroidered on saddles and decorative friezes. There is also a pattern called chainik koynu- (teapot stand), which represents a circle with internal filling.

Borders in southern Kyrgyz embroidery are typically filled with a pattern known as “islimi” (“kyial”) and has great popularity in the ornamental art of many peoples, including the Kyrgyz, as mentioned above. In Kyrgyz embroidery, there are many variations of such a pattern, ranging from straight protrusions to complex twists and curls (fig. 67).

Ornamental embroidery of southern Kyrgyz people