Life in the Regions: Shyrdaks, "Kuurma Chai," and English at 60 – How a Resident of the Village of Tilekmat Captivates Foreigners with Kyrgyzstan

Евгения Комарова Exclusive
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Umut Asanalieva, living in the village of Tilekmat, located in the Jeti-Oguz district of the Issyk-Kul region, has been handcrafting Kyrgyz national products throughout the year.

In the summer, she hosts tourists at the pasture Kök-Jayyk, where she also sells her works. A correspondent from Turmush spoke with her.

Umut Asanalieva was born on September 3, 1963, in the village of Tilekmat, becoming the fourth of nine children in her family. "My mother was very hardworking. She made shyrdaks and ala kiyiz for all of us, doing everything herself. From a young age, I helped her, and probably that's why I learned everything I know. She also made yurt accessories, and thanks to her, I mastered the creation of home decor," she shares her memories.

After finishing school, like many young people, Asanalieva decided to pursue higher education in the city. "In my first year, I couldn't get in. My mother worked as a milkmaid on a collective farm and was getting older. Then the chairman, Turatbek Kasymov, offered me to take her place: 'Work as a milkmaid, and then we will send you to study.' I joined a Komsomol brigade and worked there for three years. After that, I became a deputy — first of the village council, then the district council, and later the regional council," she recounts.

In 1980, during her marriage, she became a mother of two sons. Later, at one of the sessions of the regional council, she was offered to study in Tashkent. "At the meeting, it was said that they were accepting into the party school even with a secondary education. I immediately wrote an application. The leaders even came to my house, asking if I could study in Tashkent with two small children. My husband supported me, and I left. First, I passed exams in Rybachye (now Balakchy) and got accepted. I studied at the party school in Tashkent for four years from 1989 to 1993, but by that time, the party had already ceased to exist," she recalls.

After the party's collapse, Umut couldn't find work in her specialty. She was offered to become a history teacher, but she decided to choose a different path. For the last 12 years, she has been working with tourists who come to her area.

“We decided to rent land and host guests at the pasture Kök-Jayyk. My husband's aunt had a yurt, and we asked her: 'Let us start with it.' She agreed, and that’s how our business began. Currently, we have five yurts; some we purchased with documentation, and I made the interior decor of some with my own hands,” says Asanalieva.

From May, she begins to welcome tourists. “Guests really like Kyrgyz yurts. Recently, many specifically ask if there is a 'real' yurt. Some believe that yurts made from black wool look more authentic. Tourists also love Kyrgyz cuisine. Beshbarmak, kuurdak, and dry noodles are especially popular,” she adds.

Some highly appreciate Kyrgyz tea. “Once, the French came to us. I prepared 'kuurma chai' [a traditional Kyrgyz drink similar in consistency to soup, made from black tea with milk, flour fried in oil, and salt]. At first sip, they found it greasy and refused to drink. But then they started to try it, appreciated the taste, and ended up drinking all the tea, saying it was very tasty. The next year, the same French returned specifically for that tea. The translator later reported that they praised it so much that they decided to definitely come back in a year. We had a good conversation with them and made tea again,” the artisan recounts.

According to her, many tourists request tea from a samovar, and this becomes an integral part of their visit. She hosts guests together with her daughters-in-law, sons, and grandchildren. “My husband and I have three sons, and although I don’t have a daughter, there are many girls among my grandchildren. In the summer, they come to me, help with the tourists, and support me,” she shares.

During the summer months, Asanalieva dedicates herself to receiving guests, while at other times she engages in her craft. She is part of a group of local artisans, and together with them, she sews shyrdaks and makes felt products — panels, souvenirs, and other items. “When I started working with tourists, I met other artisans and began to collaborate with them. I really love sewing shyrdaks. We make souvenirs, panels, seat cushions, and home slippers. Tourists coming to Kök-Jayyk also buy my products,” she explains.

Once, tourists asked how panels are created. Asanalieva offered to show the process and make a product together. “We decided to depict the mountain 'Zharylgyn zhurok' [Broken Heart]. In the end, we made a panel with this theme together with the guests. They really liked it, and they took it with them. Usually, tourists prefer lightweight items that are easy to carry away,” she notes.

The prices for the products she makes in collaboration with other artisans range from 800 to 25,000 soms. “Thanks to my craft, we visited Turkey. There, we wore Kyrgyz national clothes, and people welcomed us warmly. Many wanted to take photos. Once, when we were walking in another part of the city, a woman showed us a photo on her phone and said that her daughter, who lives in that area, sent it to her. It turned out that her daughter had taken a photo with us,” she shares.

In addition, Umut Asanalieva continues to engage in dairy farming: she used to work as a milkmaid on a collective farm, and now she milks six cows herself. “I milk the cows, skim the cream. From the milk, I make ayran, and from ayran — 'suzmo.' We produce dairy products without waste. Sometimes people even ask for the whey from 'suzmo,' claiming it is good for health. From 'suzmo,' I also make kurut. Each dairy product has its buyer: some prefer kaymak, some kurut, and some ayran,” she says.

In winter, Asanalieva studies English. “In winter, I study, and in summer, I practice communication with foreign guests. I try to learn the language well. I studied it in school and educational institutions, so it’s a bit easier to learn now,” she adds.
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