In an interview with 24.kg, Nazgul shared her experience on the path to becoming a guide and explained why preserving historical memory is important in the context of new construction projects.
Photo from the interviewee's archive. Nazgul Mokeeva at the installation "Cloud Gates"
— What are the features of a tour guide's work? Is it difficult to get a work permit? Is the competition high?
— My dream is to become a guide at the Chicago Architecture Center. Our team has about 400 people, of whom about 66% conduct river tours from March to November, while the rest do land tours year-round.
After moving, I often hosted friends and relatives, which prompted me to start giving tours. I organized events for the Kyrgyz diaspora, but soon realized that I wanted to pursue this professionally.
The Chicago Architecture Center is the largest in the U.S., and it holds an annual selection for new guides. The competition is tough—three to four people compete for one spot, and the work is done on a volunteer basis. Training takes about six months, and all proceeds from the tours go to support educational projects, including those focused on preserving architectural heritage.
If I pass the exam successfully, I will receive a guide certificate and will try to live up to the trust, as the tours at the architecture center must be of a high standard. We compete with private tour agencies that are very professional and are not willing to concede.
— In the 20th century, many historical buildings were demolished in Chicago for new construction. Which architectural losses are most painfully felt by historians today?
— In Chicago, the public actively opposes demolitions. People who have lived here their whole lives want to preserve the city's appearance, and they most remember the loss of historical memory. Like in Bishkek, many residents are deeply attached to their city.
Among the most mourned objects are the Garrick Theatre and the Stock Exchange, designed by Sullivan and Adler, which contributed to the development of the Chicago architectural style. The main art museum in Chicago even has a "Wailing Wall" with fragments of demolished buildings.
— When did the public struggle for the preservation of historical buildings in Chicago begin?
— The first attempts to protect monuments began in 1905 with the threat of demolishing the Green Tree tavern. The public raised its voice, but at that time, their efforts were unsuccessful. In 1920, it was possible to preserve the building of the Museum of Science and Industry, constructed in 1893.
The iconic Chicago Theatre, a cultural landmark of the city, also faced the threat of demolition. However, in 1968, a commission for the protection of architectural monuments was created with real powers, which began systematic work to include objects in the registry of monuments.
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In Chicago, there are streets and neighborhoods under protection. In some cases, the protection only covers the exterior of the buildings, while in others, reconstruction is allowed while preserving historical elements.
The struggle for heritage preservation continues. In the four years that I have been here, we have witnessed the demolition of the legendary "Chicago Tribune" printing house for a casino, as well as the demolition of several cozy 19th-century houses for the construction of a basketball court.
— What examples from Chicago's history can serve as a lesson for Bishkek?
— It is undoubtedly important to learn from the mistakes of others. In Chicago, there have been many senseless demolitions of architectural masterpieces for the construction of parking lots and shopping centers. One such case left a vacant space in the city center for almost 20 years, as the mayor did not want to see old buildings next to modern constructions.
Journalists, such as the "Chicago Tribune," criticized the authorities not only for their arbitrariness but also for exceeding budgets. Without their work, there would have been no oversight of construction projects. Today, in the 21st century, we observe a harmonious coexistence of buildings from different eras, which only enriches the city.
— What measures for the protection of old architecture used in Chicago could be beneficial for Bishkek?
— First of all, tax incentives. For example, the owner of a mansion from 1870, which was under threat of demolition, transformed it into a boutique hotel and was exempted from property tax for more than 10 years. Now it is a gem of the southern part of the city.
Secondly, demolitions cause enormous harm to the environment, so recently, projects to change the intended use of buildings have become popular. For instance, office buildings are being converted into residential complexes, and old manufacturing sites are turned into public spaces with exhibition halls and green areas.
Thirdly, sometimes the city hall or activists come together to buy buildings slated for demolition to save them.
In Bishkek, it was very painful to watch the destruction of the house of the famous artist Gapar Aitiev. Why can't it be restored as a museum? It is part of our history and architecture. In Chicago, for a building to be recognized as a landmark, it must meet two of seven criteria, including architectural or historical significance. If this can be proven, state funds are allocated for restoration.
— What is your attitude towards the demolition of old buildings for new construction? Where do you think the line is drawn between development and the destruction of the urban environment?
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— Of course, development and moving forward are necessary. However, it is important to approach this wisely. For example, the project in the center of Bishkek is a vivid example of a thoughtless approach. How many resources have been wasted?! I am glad that the citizens protected the center from inappropriate construction and now plan to create a pedestrian square there.
I am not an urban planning expert, but I feel that something is going wrong in Bishkek: it becomes increasingly difficult to breathe each year. Living in Chicago, I did not get sick in winter, but here, despite the wind, I feel uncomfortable.
— Authorities justify demolitions by the need to widen roads or build new infrastructure. How justified do you think these arguments are?
— In the 1950s-1970s, Chicago experienced a demolition boom fueled by federal funding. Not only slums were demolished, but also quite solid buildings. The mayor, caring for his district, decided not to demolish it, which led to the destruction of Black neighborhoods.
Truck drivers often complain about traffic jams in Chicago because the highways are not always conveniently laid out. A bypass road could have been made. It is important to carefully plan and calculate everything before starting construction and demolition.
— What does a city lose when old houses and historical buildings disappear?
— Memory disappears, and important milestones are erased. Without material evidence, history loses its significance.
For example, although the Osh market is not that old, I remember it from the 1980s when it was half-empty. I returned there in the early 1990s when it became a crowded and lively place. It was a colorful spot in Bishkek, and now I read that it is set to be demolished.
— Are there buildings or neighborhoods in Bishkek whose disappearance would be an irreplaceable loss for the city's history?
— Some may argue that Bishkek does not possess outstanding architecture, but that is no reason for demolition. Garages, for example, are not works of art, but they are significant to their owners. It is important to preserve places where people have spent years doing their business.
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The trees on Dushanbinka, for example, were cut down for road widening. And the Walnut Grove, which is also under threat, is very important for the city. Destruction is not creation.
As for "Intergelpo," this area should not be demolished. It is said that the Soviet government created many enterprises, but the contribution of citizens from Czechoslovakia and Hungary to industrial development was also significant.
Telling foreigners that Alexander Dubček, the father of the "Prague Spring," studied in our schools can surprise them.
In Chicago, some neighborhoods are declared architectural landmarks as a whole. "Intergelpo" also deserves such protection. This does not mean that the buildings need to be restored to their original state, but the spirit of the neighborhood and its unique architecture must be preserved.
The building with the arch on Toktogul/Erkindik should remain. The railway station and the square around it are priceless. The entire Erkindik Boulevard should be designated as a monument. I am glad that the "Soki-Vody" ("Ak-Suu") pavilion near the "Ala-Too" cinema has been restored. It is connected to many childhood memories.
— How can we preserve the memory of places that have already disappeared?
— Tour guides can make a significant contribution to this. For example, the organization Bishkek Walks does important work in preserving the memory of the city through oral histories. I learned a lot about Chicago thanks to such tours, which inspired me for my own research.
In Chicago, we learned about the camp for captured Confederates, Camp Douglas, which was located on the site of a vacant lot, and copper plaques marking the perimeter have been installed at the site of Fort Dearborn. In Bishkek, there have also been cases where historical elements have been preserved, such as the cobblestone pavement on Erkindik Boulevard, which has been integrated into modern space.
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We need to preserve such "anchors" of memory so that oral histories are supported by material evidence.
— How do you see Bishkek in 20-30 years: a city of skyscrapers or a place where history is carefully preserved?
— Chicago has no mountains, and skyscrapers replace them on the horizon. In Bishkek, we are used to the mountains and sometimes do not pay attention to them. I hope that Bishkek will preserve oases of memory alongside the development of high-rise construction. We need to live in the present, plan for the future, and remember our past.
