Choosing a Tourist Tent for Hiking in the Mountains of Kyrgyzstan

How to Choose a Tent Correctly

A tent is your portable home during a hike. A well-chosen tent will protect you from bad weather, allow you to rest instead of battling the elements, and provide shelter in heat and cold. An uncomfortable tent that lets in all the winds can turn your life in nature into a nightmare, especially in remote areas where few feel at home. Moreover, poor-quality tourist gear can pose significant dangers.

What considerations should guide your choice of a tent?

First, understand what kind of tent you need and what you can generally expect. Start by studying existing designs, then assess your own needs and capabilities. You will need to realistically evaluate the conditions in which you plan to use the tent. Buying a tent designed for professional climbers just to use it for a family hike will likely cost you significantly more money than necessary, and you won’t be able to appreciate all the advantages of your purchase.

You need to determine what kind of tent fits your budget. Keep in mind that the most expensive tent is not necessarily the best.

At the same time, don’t chase after cheapness at the expense of quality.

Expensive imported tents are high-quality items. I don’t want to promote anyone, but if you see a tent that looks exactly like a design from domestic manufacturers but is distinctly elegant, stylish, and solid, without any strange "add-ons," priced from $400, or maybe $350, it’s likely a worthy item. If your budget allows, you will be satisfied.

Weight is an important criterion when choosing a hiking tent. A tent that weighs one kilogram less than another similar model allows you to carry an extra kilogram of food. However, a tent made from lightweight yet durable material will likely be expensive.

Volume is subjective. People perceive space differently, and a tent that seems spacious to one person may induce claustrophobia in another. Additionally, being close to a couple of restless children can easily lead to chronic insomnia. Consider why you need a tent: it’s one thing to go on a long hike where there won’t be a soul for many kilometers, and quite another to camp a hundred meters from a friend’s summer house.

Main Types of Hiking Tents

1) Tourist Tents

The most common and versatile option. This is the type chosen by most tourists worldwide as a more or less successful compromise between the weight of the tent, its reliability, comfort of living and use, and, of course, cost. Typically, such tents have a self-supporting structure – most are designed in a "semi-sphere" shape with various differences, have one or two entrances, one or two vestibules for gear, and a simple setup scheme. These tents generally have a developed ventilation system, mosquito nets, and storm guy lines. They are designed for confident use in summer, spring, and autumn, and limited use in winter and during stormy weather.

2) "Summer" Tourist Tents

Practically, these are the same tents as described above, but without their all-encompassing versatility. They are designed for use in summer, warm spring, and autumn, i.e., they are 2-3 season tents. Typically, the inner tent consists of a lot of mesh, which cannot be closed. Such tents are well-ventilated, always have plenty of fresh air, sometimes even too much… and on a cold night, you may feel this yourself. These products are very popular among tourists who do not travel in cold weather and cold countries and enjoy relaxing by the water. Typically, these tents are lighter than their more "enclosed" counterparts.

3) Storm Tents

Storm tents, or tents for climbing and extreme tourism. These are the most durable specimens of the tent family – due to their design and materials used, they have increased wind resistance and reliability, often featuring a rather intricate setup scheme with numerous poles that should be understood in advance. Typically, such tents are mainly designed for use in cold weather, and the possibilities for active ventilation are often sacrificed for a "thermos-like" design that significantly reduces heat loss inside the tent. Not the best option for hot summers or warm springs/autumns. They are indispensable during winter hikes, extreme trekking in windy areas, and climbing in high mountains.

4) Ultralight Tents

Fast&light is a very popular trend lately. Entire groups of "lightweight" hikers are fighting for every gram of weight saved in their gear. A lightweight backpack allows you to forgo the services of porters on treks in Nepal or Africa, significantly increases your speed of movement, and simply helps you enjoy the scenery without burdening your back, shoulders, and knees with excess weight. Specifically for such lightweight backpack enthusiasts, most manufacturers produce ultralight tents. Weight reduction is aided by modern materials, reduced physical dimensions of the tent, some compromises in design (for example, the absence of a closing mesh in the inner tent, a "partial" frame, meaning the tent becomes non-freestanding), as well as reduced fabric density and diameter of the frame poles. Choosing an ultralight tent for serious travels is a rather complex and responsible task. Such tents lead in innovations, but not all of them have stood the test of time (hence the innovations), so you may find yourself as an involuntary tester. Sometimes the manufacturer is so obsessed with the idea of reducing weight that they release models capable of performing their functions only in "pavilion" conditions. Also, be prepared to pay a considerable sum to obtain a product created "at the forefront of modern technical thought."

Main Types of Tent Frames

Tents can be divided into two main groups based on their structural features:
Single-layer

Double-layer

Single-layer tents are mainly made from waterproof synthetic materials. Their main advantages are lightness and compactness, while the main problem is condensation that accumulates on the walls of the tent. Therefore, when choosing a single-layer tent, you should primarily consider the type and quality of the fabric. If the material is waterproof but "non-breathable," a well-thought-out ventilation system is necessary: mesh openings on all sides of the tent.

Currently, numerous types of double-layer tents have become the most widespread, as they are the most functional. A double-layer tent consists of two tents: an inner one – lightweight and breathable (the actual tent) and an outer one – waterproof (the fly).

Double-layer tents are categorized by shape into:
"Semi-sphere" tents;
"Half-barrel" tents;

Two-pitched or tent-like tents.

"Semi-spheres" or dome tents

"Semi-spheres" and their various modifications withstand wind well (some manufacturers "test" prototypes in a wind tunnel at speeds of 50-60 m/s!), but they have a smaller living volume due to the spherical arch. The classic "semi-sphere" rests on two intersecting poles of the frame. Based on the classic design, a huge number of hybrid constructions have been created: from lightweight one- or two-person tents with just one pole to professional "winter" models whose frames consist of 6 or more intricately interwoven poles. This is necessary to give the tent a more streamlined shape and simultaneously reduce the area of the "sail" fly that does not rest on the frame. Without instructions, it can be difficult to figure out how to set up such a tent. The advantages of this type include the following characteristics: good wind resistance; the ability to set up without any guy lines (to achieve that same wind resistance, it will still need to be guyed out), and the ability to move without disassembling the structure; the ability to set up by one person with certain skills in 5-7 minutes. A "semi-sphere" can be set up on almost any surface. The disadvantage is the presence of a frame – it does add weight.

Freestanding Tents (spherical tents)

The most common tent design today is the freestanding spherical tent. That is, such a tent does not require any additional supports or guy lines in calm weather, maintaining its shape independently. The frame of such a tent consists of two, and less often three, poles that intersect in the middle (occasionally, designs that intersect in two places are found – this is more wind-resistant but also a more complex and heavier scheme). Often, a separate pole is used for a large vestibule. Additionally, a cross brace is used in the transverse plane of the tent that does not reach the ground, its main function being to support the volume shape above the vestibules on the sides of the tent.

Freestanding tents are equipped with varying numbers of storm guy lines that allow you to strengthen the structure against strong winds.

"Half-barrels"

"Half-barrels" (also referred to as "hangars" or "cylinders") offer somewhat better habitability and greater usable volume. "Half-barrels" can have two or three poles (sometimes more, but that is the domain of large, multi-person tents). The presence of a third intermediate pole adds weight to the structure but increases strength and prevents the fly from sagging. As the name suggests, tents of this type represent a halved cylinder stretched over poles set parallel to each other. Compared to "semi-spheres," this type provides more comfortable sleeping areas (greater habitability, greater height of the tent). Often, in half-barrels, a third of the volume, or even a good half, is occupied by a spacious vestibule, making them particularly attractive as a base tent or for extended stays in one place.

"Half-barrels" are practically not used in high-altitude ascents. Unfortunately, tents of this type fall short of "semi-spheres" in terms of stability and ease of setup and suffer from wind resistance. The advantages of such a design include:
good wind resistance, low weight, simplicity of the frame, large internal volume, and the possibility of creating a budget design with high performance.

However, such tents have recently left the budget segment and are quite expensive exotic items for those who do not like "like everyone else" or who clearly understand and utilize the advantages of the design. Typically, these are experienced users, seasoned tourists.

The described scheme has gained "new life" in the ultralight tent segment. By using certain tricks, it has become possible to create a tent with just one (central) pole or with two poles of different sizes, resulting in a tent that has a height sufficient for sitting only "at the heads."

Some ultralight tents essentially serve as shelters for one or two people, where there is no possibility to sit.

Mixed Frame Type

A number of freestanding tents have a large vestibule that is stretched on a separate pole, thus using the "half-barrel" principle. This allows for a large, or even very large, vestibule in the tent, well-suited for storing bulky items, camping kitchens, or even bicycles.

Frame-less Tents

I have already mentioned them briefly above in the context of single-layer tents. Quite rare designs with a limited user base. Typically, these are ultralight tents stretched on trekking poles. Sometimes it is difficult to draw a line between such tents and tarps. Generally, a tent is considered a structure with a floor, while a tarp is without a floor. Also, sometimes tents without a special frame are used in winter ski hikes and are stretched on skis and ski poles. Thus, the term "frame-less tents" is often quite conditional.

Two-pitched or Tent-like Tents

Traditional-shaped tents are still used in simple tourist hikes, as well as as cabins in base camps for large expeditions. Although they fall short of the two types mentioned above in key parameters, their advantages include the simplicity of the supporting structures and, as a rule, the ability to set up without a frame.

Innovative Designs. Hubs

Modern engineering technologies are also leaving their mark on the construction of tent frames.

Engineers are constantly trying to develop the idea of self-deploying tents – they do exist and are available on the market, but for various reasons, they have not gained popularity, especially among tourists. Over the ocean, tent designs in the style of "igloos" – traditional Eskimo dwellings or "tipis" – Native American tents are also popular. They are not popular here.

The main innovation of recent years has been the emergence of so-called hub frames. In this design, the entire frame of the tent can consist of a single structure – everything is combined into a single "skeleton" using hubs – connecting sections for the poles. As a result, a rather complex, lace-like structure can be achieved.

The main advantages of the hub design include:
reduced weight, large internal volume, and many also appreciate the modern, futuristic design.

The main disadvantage is that such a design usually still falls short of classic tents in wind resistance and is quite expensive.

Tent Attachment to the Frame

There are several main types. The most common is the attachment of the tent using clips.

This type of attachment is characterized by quick setup, simplicity, and the ability to easily use hub connections. A relative disadvantage is somewhat lower wind resistance compared to sleeve pockets.

Also, in case of breakage, the pole usually tears through the tent fabric (if the frame is between the layers).

Sleeve pockets are essentially tunnels for the frame poles through which they are inserted. This scheme is characterized by increased stability, wind resistance, and reliability (in case of breakage, the pole usually does not damage the tent). However, assembling and disassembling such a tent is more difficult, especially in designs with double pole intersections. Generally, designs with sleeve pockets are used in tents designed for challenging weather conditions. Occasionally, mixed attachment options are also found.

Another crucial point regarding the tent frame is its placement.

The most common scheme is that the inner tent is suspended to the frame with clips (or using sleeve pockets), and the fly is placed over it and secured around the perimeter (and if necessary, with "Velcro" along the frame elements). Such a tent can be easily set up without the fly, and the fly can be easily removed in the morning for drying.

The downside is that when setting up/taking down such a tent in the rain, you will inevitably wet the inner tent.

An alternative scheme is that the outer tent is attached to the frame with clips or using sleeve pockets, and the inner tent with a floor is suspended to it with hooks. This option is ideal for setting up/taking down in the rain, and it also allows you to set up the fly without the inner tent. In case of frame breakage, it is easier to repair, and the fly does not suffer in this case.

Disadvantages – you will not be able to remove the fly and dry it, and you cannot set up the tent somewhere on a warm beach without the fly and live in it; the structure is somewhat bulkier, more complex, and heavier. It is more suitable for use in extreme conditions.

Requirements for Tourist Tents

Now let's discuss what qualities a modern tent for hiking should possess.

1) Reasonable Weight and Size Parameters
Technologies are constantly evolving, and the tents that people started using for hikes twenty years ago are unimaginable to young tourists today. New materials and new concepts in construction have made tents of the new century comfortable, lightweight, and reliable. But unfortunately, this does not apply to all models. When choosing a tent, pay attention to its weight, of course considering its purpose and design. Thus, the heaviest models will be those specifically designed for extreme conditions of use – due to stronger materials and a developed frame. The weight of such tents will range from 1.5 kg per sleeping place, i.e., a 3-person tent may weigh 4-4.5 kg or even more. Regular tourist tents designed for moderate weather conditions are usually lighter – 1-1.3 kg per sleeping place. A two- or three-person tent typically weighs around 3 kilograms. It is clear that the more sleeping places in the tent, the lighter the "individual" place in it. However, a larger tent often brings complications – finding a spot for it can be difficult if the group splits or some participants drop out, the weight of the tent per participant increases.
If weight is your top priority, consider popular ultralight tents – there are incredibly lightweight options available today, and with a bit of effort, you can find a conditionally two-person model weighing less than a kilogram. As you understand, the lighter the weight, the more expensive the materials used and the product itself. Beyond a certain limit, it becomes impossible to reduce weight solely through expensive innovations, and the density (thickness) of the tent material and its frame is sacrificed; sometimes the tent is made frame-less, requiring trekking poles or something else with its own weight for setup. Therefore, choosing ultralight tents requires careful consideration.

In general, the lighter the tent, the better, but weight savings should not significantly affect the wind resistance and reliability of the tent.

2) Wind Resistance and Durability
The ability of a tent to withstand strong winds is very important, especially in areas with prevailing strong winds, such as Patagonia, Norway, or Iceland. But even in our Carpathians, wind strength can equal that of Norway, so if you plan to hike in the mountains, this characteristic will be very important. The wind resistance of a tent will primarily be influenced by factors such as:
the height of the tent (the lower, the better, but still, you should be able to sit comfortably inside);
aerodynamic shape (the tent should have, if possible, a streamlined silhouette, without vertical walls);
the number and thickness of the frame poles, and their shape (the more poles in the frame, the better the wind resistance, and the thicker the poles, the stronger they are, although the material of the poles also matters);
the material of the poles (it is best to have a frame made of lightweight aluminum alloy manufactured by a reputable producer, such as the legendary DAC). A frame made of the cheapest black plastic, which is a homogeneous, rather brittle material, is the least reliable, while fiberglass is also undesirable, especially in cold weather – it requires careful handling and is less durable and heavier.

It is also very important to choose the right location for setting up the tent. Often, this is more important than the design of the tent itself. It should be as flat as possible, without sharp hard particles on the ground, and protected from the wind.

To protect against the wind, you can build a wall of stones or snow. If you have to set up the tent on a surface with sharp edges in an emergency, lay mats under the tent.

When purchasing, prefer a tent made from Rip Stop woven material for both the outer and inner layers, as it is more durable and reliable. In case of puncture/rip, the damaged area will not "spread" further. All guy line attachment points should have reinforced seams: all points bearing the main loads should have reinforcements. The thoughtfulness of the design directly affects the lifespan and strength of the tent.

3) Waterproofing
Fortunately, the times of leaking tents have mostly passed. Most modern designs, even quite budget-friendly ones, typically do not leak under normal conditions. This is achieved through modern materials – often nylon, treatment of the fly (ideally with silicone), and seam sealing. I haven’t heard terrible stories about leaking tents for a long time. I personally used budget models (for example, from the brand Loop) with a polyethylene floor and a fly rated at 3000mm, living in them under heavy rain and staying dry. If you want to "get into" the waterproofing characteristics, pay attention primarily to the floor. It should have a "bathtub" shape and, if possible, have waterproof ratings of 8000 – 10,000mm water column. This guarantees that when you press down on the floor with your elbow, it won’t leak in that spot. You need to protect the fly and floor of the tent from punctures; if they occur, don’t delay repairs, and in extreme cases, patch small holes with adhesive tape or mounting tape. Most tents come with a repair kit containing fabric pieces and glue.

Keep in mind! American tents in their accompanying descriptions often have seemingly extremely low waterproofing ratings. You need not worry about this! Their standards differ from European ones, and the tents in terms of manufacturing quality and materials used are no less than their European counterparts.

4) Seasonality
Choose a tent thoughtfully – if you do not hike in winter or in high altitudes, an extreme climbing tent is unnecessary for you. The most versatile option is a regular tourist tent that suits your taste, needs, and budget. If you use the tent only in warm weather, choose a model with a mesh inner part.

Remember that the seasonality recommended on the website is not a death sentence; it is a conditional indicator. Much depends on your gear, especially your sleeping bag. There are successful experiences of using tents "out of season." You just need to think these things through well and understand what you are signing up for when heading to the winter Chornohora Ridge with a mesh inner tent. The characteristics of wind and moisture resistance are much more critical.

5) Thoughtful Design. Ease of Setup and Packing
The tent should not only be reliable but also comfortable for living, especially if you plan to spend a lot of time in it. First, choose a tent with adequate capacity. It is unlikely to be worth taking one with extra sleeping places. The most popular among tourists are 2-4 person tents. Keep in mind that in most 2-person tents, three "average" sized people can fit, and in a 3-person tent, four can fit. To avoid hitting your head and feet against the walls of the tent, choose it based on length – your height + 10-15cm. For most people of average build, a width of 60cm is sufficient – the width of most sleeping pads. The height in the middle of the tent should allow you to sit comfortably without pressing against the ceiling. The tent's design must provide adequate ventilation for the conditions you anticipate using it in.

If the tents are two or more person, two entrances are more convenient than one. Most users agree that side entrances are preferable to end ones. I think if there is only one entrance/exit, it is more convenient for it to be at the end. If you have two entrances/exits, it is better for them to be placed on the sides. Exceptions may be climbing models with their specific placement in the mountains in confined conditions on small platforms.

The Vestibule in the Tent. The larger it is, the better; almost no one disputes this. The main thing is the compromise in the battle against low weight. For mountains, the space occupied by the tent is crucial. Nevertheless, it is good when the vestibule can accommodate your backpacks and shoes; ideally, it should allow you to cook in bad weather. Even better if there are two vestibules. This is indeed convenient. A tent design that allows you to open the entrance/exit in the rain so that water does not get inside the tent is also convenient. The vestibule design should allow you to easily open and close the zippers of the vestibule and ventilation openings. In some tents, even those with long limbs find it difficult to reach them.

The more pockets and shelves in the tent, the more convenient it is.

The tent fly should hang as low to the ground as possible, ideally almost reaching it. No matter what the salespeople tell you about the need for ventilation, remember – if there is a chance of heavy rain, water droplets will bounce off the ground and ricochet into your tent if your fly ends high above the ground.

There is an opinion that "extreme" tents need a snow skirt – an additional strip of fabric around the bottom perimeter of the fly that can be buried in snow or weighed down with stones. Sometimes, this is indeed a necessary thing that makes life easier in challenging conditions. But such a skirt makes the tent heavier and worsens the already not exemplary breathability of such tents. So in most cases, I wouldn’t consider this design feature critically important. To confirm that I am not the only one who thinks this way, the fact that most well-known mountain tent manufacturers do not equip their tents with snow skirts.

If you often travel in stormy conditions, pay attention to the "flaps" of the ventilation openings. In most tents, they close with a minimal Velcro in the center – strong winds will open such an unreliable lock, and rain will pour in during stormy weather. It may be worth choosing a tent whose external ventilation leads into the vestibule.

The Color of the Tent. Should the tent be noticeable? In most cases, the answer will be a firm "yes." More like a YES. A bright tent equipped with the maximum number of reflectors will often save you, serving as a landmark. When you look down from the top of a mountain and see your bright little house about a kilometer below, it brings a warm feeling to your heart.

On the other hand, it is often necessary to leave the tent with belongings for an entire day or more in places where you would not want it to be seen. The less the rangers, locals, and just passing citizens in some sketchy places see your tent, the more peacefully you can stroll around. I would say this – a bright tent is a choice for civilized places where civilized people live and walk, even if they are in some wild mountains. Civilization in this case is by no means synonymous with technical progress… in the rest – it’s up to you to decide.

Footprint. Simply put, it is a second floor, a groundsheet that mimics the shape of the tent's floor, often the footprint can be attached to the poles, allowing you to set up the tent "without its insides." The main functions of the footprint are:
protection of the floor,
extension of lifespan,
protection from dirt.

Cons – extra weight and space in your backpack. Moreover, it does not protect against truly sharp stones, branches, glass shards, wire, or nails. Sometimes it is needed, more often – it is not.

Rules for Setting Up a Tent

For the tent, find a dry, well-ventilated, flat spot. You need to consider that dense trees do not allow the tent to ventilate and dry well, and a tent set up under direct sunlight will heat up significantly during the day. In case of rain, the tent should not end up in a puddle or be washed away by a stream rushing down a slope.

The ground should be free of bumps, mounds, protruding tree roots, or pine cones. It is undesirable to set up the tent on tall grass. It is not recommended to pitch the tent near anthills or close to a fire.

A diagram will help you set up the tent correctly. You must follow the instructions clearly and adhere to the sequence of work. To avoid struggling with setting up the tent in the dark or in the rain, it’s better to familiarize yourself with its design at home.

The surfaces of the tent should be stretched evenly with no twists, using all guy lines, ensuring that the fly of the double-layer tent does not touch the inner layer. This achieves the main effect: moisture rolls down the taut fly without getting onto the inner layer of the tent.

If you anticipate that snow will melt or rain will fall, it is necessary to dig a trench around the tent for water drainage.

The pegs should be driven into the ground at an angle of about forty-five degrees, three-quarters of their length – otherwise, they will bend or pop out due to tension.

Tent Care

What conditions must be met to ensure that the tent serves you as long as possible?

The main thing is to store it in a dry place. If, for example, during the hike you cannot dry the tent, be sure to do so when you return home. The tent should be unfolded, hung on a rope, and kept that way until it is completely dry. Only after that can the tent be packed and stored for a long time.

Many tent owners wonder if it is possible to restore the waterproofing of the fly.

Indeed, it is possible. However, there are certain nuances in this case. Special impregnating materials are usually used for this purpose. This allows the fly to last for some time longer, but this method does not completely solve the problem. Additionally, such impregnation can be quite expensive.

To extend the life of the tent, do not forget the usual safety measures that are important on a hike.

For example, the tent should not be located too close to the fire. Even a spark that accidentally lands on the surface of the fly can damage the material, burn a hole.

Inside the tent, it is not advisable to use a camping stove. Even if nothing bad happens, it will surely leave soot marks on the inner surface. Care should be taken when handling hot objects.

A hot pot touching the tent wall can easily make a hole in it.

With proper use, a tent typically lasts 5-7 years.

Sleeping Bag