On the way through 32 serpentine roads, cow dung, and tea in a samovar — how a Kyrgyz village lives on the border with China

Наталья Маркова Exclusive
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At an altitude of 3800-4000 meters above sea level lies the remote mountain village of Ak-Shyyrak.

This village is located in the Issyk-Kul region, right at the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. Ak-Shyyrak was founded during active geological research in the highlands of the country during the Soviet period, when a base camp for expeditions was organized here. Over time, this camp evolved into a settlement of geologists, which thrived until the collapse of the Soviet Union.

Despite its remoteness from administrative and regional centers, the local residents, who have lived here for generations, consider this place their home.

A regional correspondent from Turmush visited Ak-Shyyrak to learn about the lives of its inhabitants. The village elder, 87-year-old Turum Kokocho kyzy, shared the story behind the village's name: “Our village is called Ak-Shyyrak, which is related to a stallion. According to legend, a boy from a poor family herded the cattle of wealthy people and, in gratitude, received a young horse. This horse destroyed everything in its path, and soon the boy left these places and settled here, naming the village in honor of the stallion. Local residents began to move here in 1928-1930 from Enilchek, representing the ‘konurat’ and ‘monoldor’ tribes. A collective farm called ‘Pervomayskiy’ was established in this area.

The village has a rich history. Mining operations were conducted here, but after the closure of the mine and the school, life in the settlement changed significantly. In 1988, Turum Kokocho kyzy and her husband wrote a letter to Apas Jumagulov, the then-chairman of the Council of Ministers of the Kyrgyz SSR. Thanks to his intervention, the boarding school of Ak-Shyyrak was reopened, which helped preserve the village's population. “Since then, I have not been able to express my gratitude to him,” adds the elder.

According to Turum, they now live in normal conditions. “We engage in livestock farming and spend our days happily. The children help with the household. If I go to my children who live by Lake Issyk-Kul, I return after 15 days because I miss it here,” she shares.

Recently, the villagers received "red books" for their homes, which brought them joy. Ak-Shyyrak is located 240 kilometers from the Jeti-Oguz district and has about 300 residents, making it quite sparsely populated.

The locals stock up on food for the entire winter and try not to leave the village until summer. In the summer, many usually leave, while only a few stay behind.

The road to Ak-Shyyrak passes through the Sary-Moynok and Soak passes, where there are 32 switchbacks. The main occupation of the locals is livestock farming, and there is a school in the village with more than ten teachers.

Ak-Shyyrak is a place where the traditional Kyrgyz way of life continues: residents heat their stoves with dung, cook food in cauldrons, and brew tea in samovars. They prefer to stay on their land and have lived in this remote area for years.



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