We left Amman early in the morning. The road rushed towards the day to the Jordan River. The cold desert wind gradually gave way to warm currents rising from the green valley. The first thing I felt upon seeing the river was disappointment. In my imagination, the Jordan was a powerful stream with wide open banks. Here, in fact, there was hardly a river at all - just a bushy valley with a small stream and the huge King Hussein Bridge, which we were to cross into Israel.
Then there were long wanderings in the labyrinths of barbed wire in search of the checkpoint. The sluggishness of the Arab border guards, who examined our passports several times as if they were some kind of curiosity, was irritating. And finally, the coveted stamp, and our bus was driving through the barbed corridor to the Israeli side of the Jordan.
Here the atmosphere was more ceremonial, but it was not so simple either. A thorough inspection of luggage, passport checks, and even a detailed conversation. The questions varied: where were you born, who did you marry, why did you come, and why from this side, what did you do in Jordan? In short, this entire lie detector took two hours.
- That’s how it’s done, - said our guide Anatoly, who met us at the border. - We live surrounded by Arab countries, which are irritated by the presence of Jews on this land. We have many enemies and envious people who do not like Israel’s successes...
It was very warm. Along the road, cacti and oleanders were blooming, behind which stretched hills with sparse shrubs and lifeless, sun-scorched valleys. Here you have it, the Promised Land, I thought, looking at this harsh lifeless landscape.
It was about 60 kilometers to Jerusalem - our first port of call in the Promised Land. The bus easily climbed the ascent, slowly lifting us to the heart of the sacred land. Anatoly combined the roles of guide and driver, which was convenient for both us and, probably, the tour operator in terms of expenses.
From the very first minutes, Anatoly began to shine with deep knowledge of the history, culture, and geography of Israel. Perhaps this somehow changed my perception of Israel. I must admit that, having seen and felt everything, as they say, with my own eyes and feelings, I was filled with the deepest respect for the ancient, long-suffering, and noble people.
