— Tash kordo is an ancient dish of the Kyrgyz, — our hero tells. — Food cooked in fire, on stones, that is roughly the meaning of the name. Tash kordo was mainly prepared by merghenchis — hunters. They shot game, and since there were no pots or other utensils at hand, they used all available means. They dug a pit in the ground one and a half meters long and seventy centimeters wide, lining it with stones on the inside. Then came the butchering of the catch. The meat was seasoned with wild garlic, onions, and other edible plants that grow abundantly in our mountains. Everything was wrapped in fresh skin and left for a while. A large fire was lit in the pit. The wood had to burn completely — only hot red coals remained. And then, so to speak, raw branches (specifically green ones, so the fire couldn't catch them) were hung, somehow securing the marinated pieces. All this was lowered into the pit — the meat had to barely reach the ashes. Next, the pit was completely covered again with the animal's skin. And on top, it was covered with dry leaves and clay. This was to create a vacuum, preventing steam from escaping. And although the merghenchis did not time themselves, they knew exactly when to retrieve the cooked meat. All these procedures took about five to six hours.
Aitmatov was surprised
Jusupbekov once read this ancient recipe in a book. And right away he wanted to try it himself. But first, the newly minted chef decided to modernize the cooking method a bit. Why, for example, cover the tandyr (a type of oven) with skin if there is thick tarpaulin at home? Moreover, one can construct a lid from tightly nailed wooden boards. And instead of green branches, even super-strong ones, one can easily use metal skewers with special hooks. And there is no need for stones. They can be replaced with fireproof bricks.
— As a result, I can prepare tash kordo not in five to six hours, as the hunters did, but in just 45 minutes! — boasts our interlocutor.
The fame of the tash kordo prepared by Jusupbekov's hands spread far beyond Toktogul. Rayimbek-bayke is usually asked to prepare his signature dish at some gathering, a toye (celebration). And the presentation of the dish always follows a similar script. The host proudly brings in a huge tray with a fragrant steaming mound, and people immediately grab knives and lean towards the plates. And feeling the amazing taste of the meat melting in their mouths, they inevitably demand to see the author. In those moments, Rayimbek Jusupbekov clearly feels happy. Why not! So many people are satisfied. And he never tires of recounting the entire backstory of his culinary career a thousand times. He believes that by preparing tash kordo and telling its story, he is contributing to the revival of ancient traditions and customs.
The unforgettable taste of the merghenchis' food has also been tried by famous people. Among them are deputies of the Jogorku Kenesh and officials. But Rayimbek Jusupbekovich especially highlights the genius Kyrgyz writer Chinghiz Aitmatov.
— After tasting the meat, the elder was very surprised. He said, is there really someone who cooks tash kordo?! It turns out he had also read about it in books but had never seen how it was done, — recalls the chef.
And foreigners, as a rule, upon experiencing the tenderness of the lamb, exclaim: “Oh my God!”.
— The meat should truly melt in your mouth, not be chewed over and over again. For tash kordo, young lambs up to one and a half years old are suitable. And they should be moderately fat — not too fatty and not too lean.
