Notes by K.G. Mannerheim on the Life and Customs of the Alai Kyrgyz in the Early 20th Century


Paths of outstanding politicians from different countries often intersect, each playing a key role in the fate of their state.

Such meetings, especially when accompanied by fascinating stories, usually do not go unnoticed and leave a significant mark in the memory of descendants. Such a case occurred in the early 20th century in southern Kyrgyzstan. The military traveler, scout, Colonel of the General Staff of the Russian army, and descendant of Swedish aristocrats, Baron von Mannerheim, was honored with an audience by the clan leader Alai, Kurmandjan Datka.

Later, from August 4, 1944, to March 11, 1946, he became the sixth president of Finland. He passed away on January 27, 1951, at the age of 83, and was an honorary marshal and national hero of his country, a holder of many orders.

In the history of Kyrgyzstan, this Finnish statesman and military figure is particularly interesting because he captured several moments of the life of the Mountain Queen and her entourage in his photographs. It later turned out that the photographs taken by this man are perhaps the only surviving documents that accurately convey the appearance of the main heroine of our book and many details of the life of Kyrgyz aristocracy in the early 20th century. But the traveler left not only photographs for the Kyrgyz people. He also authored travel notes that contain invaluable information about the life of the Turkestanis of that time, vivid descriptions of the lifestyle of the Alai Kyrgyz, and, most importantly for us, notes about meetings with Kurmandjan Datka.

A few facts about the biography of this bright figure in our history. Carl Gustav Emil von Mannerheim was a citizen of Russia, then Finland, of Swedish descent. He received an excellent education and military experience in the imperial army. He participated in significant events such as the coronation of Nicholas II, the Russo-Japanese War, and World Wars I and II. However, the peak of fame awaited this politician after the fall of the Russian Empire. In 1919, Mannerheim became the regent of the King of Finland, and from 1939 to 1945, he served as marshal and commander-in-chief, later becoming the president of the Finnish Republic. A distinguished guard officer, he was later recognized as a national hero and took a worthy place in the history of many countries. One of the most remarkable pages of his biography is the expedition to Central Asia from 1906 to 1908, undertaken on behalf of the General Staff of the Russian Empire. Over two years, the brave traveler covered more than 14,000 kilometers on horseback from Samarkand to Beijing.

Alongside military information, the baron collected a wealth of ethnographic and archaeological materials. They continue to serve as an excellent source on the history and culture of Central Asia. I reiterate, his notes on the life and customs of the Alai Kyrgyz in the early 20th century, his meeting with the Alai Queen Kurmandjan Datka, and the unique collection of photographs taken by K.G. Mannerheim are of particular interest to historians.

In the notebook of this military figure, under the brief heading "Additional Information," his own research observations are recorded. The main part contains information about stone sculptures with runic inscriptions, as well as Chinese civil and military legislation. The inquisitive researcher did not miss numerous details of the local inhabitants' lifestyle, such as the colors of the glazed bricks covering the mosques of Samarkand, guidelines for treating diseases, decorations of yurts, and the production of felt by women, as well as men's horse racing. The notebook also includes a list of books about Central Asia and China, totaling one hundred titles. Additionally, there are 15 pages written in neat handwriting that represent a Swedish-Chinese dictionary containing a total of 1,200 words...

As gifts for the local residents, Mannerheim brought magnifying glasses, Finnish knives, needles, spools of thread, music boxes, watches, necklaces, volumes of the Quran, scissors, and other pleasant little things. For instance, in addition to a thousand postcards depicting landscapes and portraits, the guest had 500 erotic photographs, the so-called "nudes," samples of "naked nature." In the notebook, we also find a story about how a Kalmyk performed bloodletting on Mannerheim's sick pack horse, as well as how the Sart people treated his enraged black stallion through a special surgical operation.

During his travels in the cities of Kashgar and Yarkand, Mannerheim was assisted by Swedish missionaries, Russian consul Sergey Kolokolov, and his close friend, British agent George McCartney (half Chinese). The Chinese mandarins also expressed their willingness to provide support, readily offering valuable information. Everywhere the traveler made friends among the Kyrgyz of the Alai mountains, as well as among the Kalmyks of the Yulduz Valley, Uyghurs, and Dungans from Gansu Province.

Mannerheim particularly noted the cheerfulness and capriciousness of the latter. By the way, representatives of these peoples were often the only ones from whom the traveler could buy fresh milk.

How misfortune passed by the Alai people thanks to the "Queen of Alai"
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